Two landmarks pinpoint Sophiatown (or Kofifi as it was affectionately known). One, ironically, is the yellow high-rise block of police flats that stands on the edge of the ridge overlooking Westpark Cemetery. Visible from afar, it was constructed after the forced removals of February 1955. This location was ideal for surveying the areas to the south-west — Coronationville and Soweto. In line of its gaze, the tower of the Anglican church of Christ the King stood as a defiant symbol of hope, reminding us of what had almost disappeared under the orderly white suburb of Triomf.
When I mention Sophiatown people say one of two things; one is that it is pointless going there because there is very little left to see; the other is that it has already “been done” — in photographs, books and films about the glamorous 1950s, the halcyon days before the bulldozers moved in.
Unlike District Six, and nearby Pageview, there are no empty plots of land to mark the scars of forced removal. However, this absence forces us to focus on the intangible, to make the most of the physical remains and include Triomf as part of a historical continuum.
No one knows the importance of the intangible better than the church’s youth group, whose members are finalising a walking tour of the area and being accredited as site guides by South African Tourism. At the heart of the tour are the stories of former residents, the “witnesses”, who accompany the guides along the famous streets immortalised by Drum magazine writers and photographers in the 1950s.
There is a delightful sense of anticipation as we walk out of the gates on to Ray Street. After a lively introduction, guides Mpho Rakate, Tshepo Letsoalo and Tsietsi Shai invite Bra Simon Ramela and Bra Herman Rampolokeng to share their memories.
So begins a rollicking conversation where visitors find themselves transported into another time. These memories are not sentimental. They weave unpalatable aspects, such as rack-renting by landlords, with the heroism inherent in small and large acts of defiance to fashion the living whole.
The grid layout of the suburb and the flat terrain make for easy walking and engagement with the landscape. Jerry Masoleng and Melusi Diseko take over as we stroll along Victoria Street and turn left. We stop at a small open space where witness Sontie Tikulu reminisces about St Cyprian’s School and Father Trevor Huddleston’s swimming pool, both associated with to the church.
Huddleston occupies an exalted place in the hearts of the many former residents of Sophiatown. The famous, such as Sally Motlana, Hugh Masekela and Thandie Klaasen, and the ordinary treasure very personal memories of his capacity for attention and care. Father Mongezi Guma, the rector of Christ the King, is concerned that Huddleston’s rather long shadow has obscured the contribution of the women who served alongside him. Symbolically, hidden under a thick layer of paint in the interior of the Church, exquisite murals by Sister Margaret Watson are waiting to be revealed.
The tour meanders towards Bertha Street, where the trunk of a century-old oak tree sprouts incongruous thin shoots from its amputated branches. Quite a story surrounds this once gracious survivor of the devastation of the months following the removals. Its protected status as South Africa’s first “champion tree” is testimony to the power of memories and to the commitment of young people, the witnesses, residents in the area, the city council and the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry.
Over the past three years, Region Four, the municipal area under which Sophiatown falls, has organised an annual “Sophiatown: Heart and Soul” programme, which includes commemorative inter-faith services and music at the church and St Joseph’s Home. Coronationville and Westbury, both intimately linked to their better-known neighbour, provide jazz bands and memories, which enhance the experience.
Toby Street delineates the boundary between Sophiatown and Westdene. We pass Dr AB Xuma’s house as we cross Edward Street. It is a privately owned national monument, and one of the few original structures left.
Our destination where we will stop for refreshments is another national monument, St Joseph’s Home, sitting snugly behind Mellville Koppies to the right of the police flats.
The beautiful stone buildings housed orphans of coloured soldiers who served in World War I.
Back at the church, which celebrates its 70th anniversary this year, visitors can buy “Made in Sophiatown” art work and souvenirs from the Trevor Huddleston Memorial Centre next door.
Tours will be up and running by January 2005, in time for the 50th anniversary of the removals. In the meantime, visitors are welcome to join the congregation of former residents and their families, and a sprinkling of locals, for the eclectic and joyous Sunday service at 9am.
As the sun sets over Northcliff, we find peace in the Huddleston and Sekoto memorial gardens to the north of the famous church tower.