Seven days into my first visit to South Africa, I went to a book launch at The Shack in Soweto.
After complimenting photographer Jodi Bieber, and eating and drinking plenty, I started to dance with some people.
Then I spotted a six-year-old girl dancing in the middle of The Shack’s courtyard right next to a glowing fire barrel. She jumped and turned; she clapped and spun. At her age, I’d barely learned how to put my dance shoes on.
Dancing right next to her was a beautiful woman looking as happy as only a mother can. I went up to her and we quickly discovered we shared something: she had lived in Germany, my home country, for 20 years. She had been a dancer there; her daughter was born in Berlin; and they returned to South Africa last summer.
She had come to the book launch with her family and friends. They live in Soweto and The Shack is close to their house. Their visible enjoyment had encouraged me to approach them and in return they wanted to know all about me.
Where I was from? Russia (where I was born) and Germany (from the age of two). What was I doing here? Interning at the Mail & Guardian. What had I studied? Economics and psychology. How long I was staying? Three months. First time in Soweto? Yes. Liking it? Absolutely!
Any plans for this Saturday? Unfortunately, yes — but would I come back and sleep over at their house next time so they could show me the real Soweto, the one they knew, not the one in the media? We exchanged telephone numbers.
Soweto and The Shack — what an entirely perfect place for the launch of Bieber’s book, I thought. It was crowded but that seemed just right: you had to mingle. And I could see that friends and complete strangers — from Soweto, other parts of Jo’burg, South Africa and the rest of the world — were all interacting. At tables laden with food and drink, they stood in the beer-garden-style section and in the inner court, with its huge screen (showing Bafana Bafana take on Colombia), gesticulating over the loud music.
When my friends, who were giving me a lift home, wanted to leave, I was deep in conversation with another Sowetan about how classical philosophy can be applied to current times. I had to say bye (I had work the next day and no other way of getting home).
But I spoke to the little girl, saying I’d arranged with her mother to spend a night at her house. She jumped and smiled. “Au, ja!” she exclaimed, using the colloquial German expression of happiness.
I’ve been welcomed warmly where I’ve been so far in South Africa, but this was the first time I felt at home — in Soweto, with the little dancing girl and her family and friends.
Some say Soweto has become something of a brand and that other townships deserve the same attention. I don’t know — I only got a small glimpse. But I’m going back this weekend.