Although denting the reputation of South African wine producers over the short-term, the uncovering of KWV’s use of additives in two of its Sauvignon Blanc wines can have a positive longer-term impact on the local wine industry’s image overseas as well, according to Paul Pontallier, managing director of Château Margaux, the world-famous Bordeaux wine estate.
Pontallier was commenting on the incident, which came to light on Monday, during a visit to South African wine estate Plaisir de Merle, which is owned by listed wine and spirits group Distell, where he has been a consultant since its start-up in 1990.
KWV admitted that two of its seven winemakers had used flavourants in its 2004 Laborie Sauvignon Blanc and 2004 KWV Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, having been detected as part of an investigation by the Wine and Spirits Board earlier this year.
In an interview with I-Net Bridge on Tuesday, Pontallier said that the incident could only harm South Africa’s reputation over the short-term, but that the use of flavourants, which is illegal in many countries, did happen all over the world.
“There is a high level of pressure on companies and/or winemakers as they are tempted to test the limits in creating certain styles of wine that they know will do well with tasting panels,” he said.
“But in the longer-term, the good consequence of this incident is that it shows the South African wine industry is very serious about detecting fraud and stopping it. They have done an extensive investigation and people have been caught, which shows that the system is working well.”
He added that it was ironic that the company had added a specifically fruity flavour to its Sauvignon Blanc, as this flavour was one that many French wine producers sought to avoid.
“It just shows the difference in people’s relative perceptions of wines. Some producers think consumers desperately want this flavour, while others might see it as a fault to be avoided.”
Pontallier said he was impressed by the improving quality of South African wines now being produced. He believed the biggest advantage South Africa possessed was the large variation of its sites, grape varieties and the combination thereof, as well as the diversity of winemaking styles, all of which offered a wide array of possibilities for consumers.
“There is such a huge potential richness and variety of wines, it can only be good for the industry and consumers,” he said.
“Some wines being made are excellent to drink now. I prefer these more traditional, easy-drinking wines to big, impressive wines.”
Plaisir de Merle, with its 410 hectares of vineyards, is large enough to echo this variety and give Pontallier and long-time winemaker Niel Bester many different options for creating wonderful wines. However, the estate uses only about 25% of its own grapes, with the balance going to fellow Distell-owned cellar Nederburg. It produces about 40 000 (nine-litre) cases of wine annually, of which about 80% is exported, mainly to Denmark and Germany.
Despite an aversion to show-stopping wines, Plaisir de Merle has won many awards, particularly for its Cabernet Sauvignon.
Currently Bester is devoting much attention to the cellar’s relatively new red blend, Grand Plaisir, to create a statement for the property.
“Cabernet Sauvignon will continue to be about 85% of the blend, but then we can add Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Franc or other varieties to enhance the wine,” Bester explains.
“Ours is a very pragmatic approach — we don’t follow a set recipe. But we do devote a lot of time and care in the blending process.”
Unlike many other South African cellars, the group has no plans for expansion in the immediate future, say Pontallier and Bester.
“Given the very competitive conditions in the world wine industry today, it is very risky to expand,” Pontallier comments.
“I believe it is better to focus one’s attention on creating excellent quality wine.”
Château Margaux, dating back to the 12th century, is to all who know of this Bordeaux First Growth, synonymous with the highest quality standards in wine internationally. Pontallier, who is credited with having re-invented this famous French estate after its fortunes had dipped, is hailed as a luminary among winemakers.
The wines produced under the illustrious label of Ch̢teau Margaux fetch stratospheric prices and are coveted by serious collectors worldwide, as are the wines he produces in a joint venture in Chile. РI-Net Bridge