To some it’s a desolate and forbidding landscape, but for others the Ai-Ais/Richtersveld National Park is the epitome of beauty. Jointly managed by South African National Parks and the local Nama people, the park is part of a transfrontier conservation area which spans the Northern Cape and southern Namibia.
The park came into being on August 1 2003, with the incorporation of the Ai‒Ais Hot Springs Game Park in Namibia and the Richtersveld National Park in South Africa.
Although remote – more than 1 500km from Johannesburg and 875km from Cape Town, it is worth the time and effort to get there, offering a veritable treasure chest of some of the world’s richest desert flora. It is also the home of the world’s second-largest canyon – the Fish River Canyon.
From miniature rock gardens to tiny succulents and other-worldly rock formations, the flora and fauna are watered by seasonal rains and the early morning fog. Slicing through this harsh wilderness is the Orange River, which offers some respite from the dry and rugged terrain.
At Sendelingsdrift on the South African side, the old pont, which was last in service in 1988 when South West Africa (now Namibia) gained its independence from South Africa, has been restored and offers an unusual and convenient way of crossing the river. It is accessible only by a 4×4 vehicle. Normal sedans are not permitted.
There is a host of accommodation options in the park, from the SendeÂÂlingsdrift Rest Camp to Tatasberg and Ganakouriep wilderness camps, hiking trails and campsites.
Sendelingsdrift, a relatively new rest camp, consists of 10 chalets. Four offer four beds and six are two-bed units. The chalets are air-conditioned and have a fridge and two-plate electric stove. There is a swimming pool and all chalets have stoeps with views over the Orange River.
Potjiespram rest camp has 18 campsites and an environmental education centre where school groups can stay in traditional Nama huts. There are new ablution facilities but only cold-water showers.
Richtersberg, which is on the banks of the river, offers 12 camping sites and an ablution block with cold showers. Tatasberg and Ganakouriep wilderness camps each consists of four two-bed, self-catering units with showers (hot and cold water), a 12-volt lighting system, fridges and gas stoves and a resident caretaker.
In addition there is the Hiking Trails Base Camp in the Ganakouriep Valley, which accommodates nine people and has gas stoves, fridges and hot and cold water. Sadly, the hiking trail is not open as there is a shortage of qualified guides, but groups which bring their own qualified guide may ask for permission to hike. There are important things to remember before considering the Ai-Ais/Richtersveld as a destination.
For a start, drinking water can be an issue, as some of the water supply is not suitable for consumption. There are no shops, so everything you need has to be taken with you, and, most importantly, removed by you. Although petrol and diesel are available at Sendelingsdrift there is no unleaded petrol. The nearest garage with unleaded petrol is 80km away.
When camping, it is important to remember that heavy dew occurs at night. Temperatures are extreme – up to 53°C in mid-summer but with much cooler nights and cold in winter. Insect repellent and plastic refuse bags are a must. There is no firewood or kindling so these must be brought in by guests, although SanParks advises that gas braais or cookers be used. You need to pack for all eventualities and climates. An extra spare wheel, tools, spares and enough food and extra water are recommended.
If taking on the Richstersveld sounds like an adventurous expedition, it is, but it is one that will give you special holiday memories for the rest of your life. And probably have you going back for more.
The quickest way to get to the park from within South Africa is on the N7, turning off at Steinkopf and approaching the park via Port Nolloth and Alexander Bay. On this route only the last 80km are on dirt. For those wishing to vary their route and get a broader picture of the Ai-Ais/Richtersveld, the road from Vioolsdrift, via Kotzehoop, offers spectacular scenery to Eksteenfontein and then on to Sendelingsdrift.
For more information on the Ai-Ais/Richtersveld National Park and a full list of tariffs and accommodation options visit www.sanparks.org.