Lack of polish: Kampala’s urban form reflects a city that has grown by default rather than by design. Photo: Wikimedia Commons
After a four-week professional immersion in Rwanda, a country that has mastered the art of urban coherence, I arrived in Kampala, Uganda, with a sharpened analytical lens and a pen reawakened by contrast. Kigali had reignited my passion for writing after a prolonged hiatus, offering a compelling case study in disciplined urban planning.
It is a city where infrastructure speaks the language of intentionality, and governance is not merely performative but profoundly service-oriented. Kigali’s urban form is not accidental. Its pedestrian-friendly pavements, efficient moto-taxi system, and absence of potholes or load-shedding are the result of a governance model that privileges long-term vision over short-term expediency.
The city’s cleanliness is not cosmetic; it is infrastructural. Its silence is not apathy; it is order. Rwanda’s strategic investment in human capital, sport diplomacy, and global partnerships has positioned it as a hub for tourism, investment, and international collaboration.
This is leadership that understands the multiplier effect of stability: political calm attracts capital, talent, and ideas. It was against this backdrop that I entered Kampala, a city whose urban landscape tells a very different story. As a seasoned professional in the built environment, I approached the city with the trained eye of a planner and project manager. What I observed was not merely a lack of polish, but a systemic failure of development control and spatial governance.
The city appears to be grappling with the consequences of unregulated growth, fragmented institutional mandates, and a planning ethos that has lost its compass. There is little evidence of adherence to basic building regulations. Settlements are haphazardly arranged, slums sprawl across wetlands and waterways, and informal trading dominates the congested Central Business District. The sanitation infrastructure is visibly strained, rudimentary sewer canals carry open sewage, and waste management systems appear overwhelmed.
Driving from Katuna, the dimly lit settlements suggested widespread reliance on solar power. Yet, the power outage we experienced in a supermarket was a stark reminder that Uganda, too, is navigating energy insecurity. The transport system, while functional, lacks the regulatory finesse observed in Kigali.
Boda boda riders operate ageing motorbikes, often without helmets for passengers, and frequently overload their vehicles. In Kigali, by contrast, moto-taxi operators wear reflective bibs, carry helmets, and some even operate electric bikes.
My walk through of Kampala’s city centre revealed a landscape devoid of structured land-use patterns. Mixed and incompatible land uses coexist — industrial, residential, and commercial activities blur into one another without clear zoning. The roads are congested, poorly connected, and difficult to classify by density or function. There is no discernible hierarchy of residential zones, and the absence of planning logic is palpable.
The zoning system, if it exists, is inefficient and inconsistently enforced. These observations are not merely technical; they are symptomatic of a deeper governance malaise. Kampala’s urban form reflects a city that has grown by default rather than by design. It is a city where planning is reactive, not proactive; where regulation is sporadic, not systemic; and where the built environment is shaped more by survival than by strategy. Yet, amidst this disorder, a paradox worth exploring exists.
A conversation with our taxi driver revealed that only about 30% of Ugandans hold passports. He suggested that most citizens prefer the simplicity of village life when urban living becomes too difficult. Despite the city’s shabby appearance, he insisted that Ugandans are generally well-fed and decently housed. This prompted a philosophical reflection: could it be that beneath Kigali’s polished exterior lies a carefully choreographed narrative, while Kampala’s visible disorder masks a deeper contentment?
In Kigali, the cleanliness of the streets and the efficiency of systems may obscure economic hardship. In Kampala, the chaos may coexist with grassroots resilience.
But from a planning perspective, Rwanda remains the benchmark. Its success is deliberate, not accidental. It is a model of what African cities can achieve when urban planning is treated not as an afterthought but as a strategic imperative. Kigali’s governance systems are consistent, its infrastructure is maintained, and its public services are delivered with precision. It is a city that understands that planning is not merely about buildings, it is about people, systems, and futures.
Given the historical, cultural, and political ties between Rwanda and Uganda, collaboration in urban planning should not be difficult. Kampala can learn from Kigali to adopt its ethos of intentionality, regulation, and citizen-centred development. Africa’s urban future depends on cities that are planned, governed, and built with purpose. Kigali has shown us what is possible. Kampala must decide if it will continue to grow by inertia or begin to grow by design.
Wellington Muzengeza is a senior construction project manager and urban planner. He is also a published thought leader.