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			 / 15 December 2004
			
		
		Music is the second religion in Cuba and in the capital it’s laid on thick for the tourists; from the tacky <i>Tropicana</i> — one of the world’s most famous cabarets — to the quartets strumming Buena Vista classics and <i>Guantanamera</i> in every bar and restaurant. Gavin Owen finds himself a willing convert.