Owen Sheers

I’m sitting on a rough wooden bench beside Eero, a large Finnish man, next to a traditional smoke sauna in the middle of an island, in the middle of a river (in which we’ve just swum), in the middle of a forest, in the middle of Finland, which right now feels, blissfully, like the middle of nowhere. Naked. Vapour steams from our shoulders and thighs while my head appears to have floated free of my neck, writes Owen Sheers.