/ 25 August 2003

City hacks unwind in the North West bush

Like a slumbering giant waking up to its potential, the North West province is aggressively marketing itself as a premier tourist destination for jaded domestic travellers and as a prime location for overseas tourists.

”The North West is marketed as the Heritage Destination and offers diverse cultures, ecotourism and historical sites. We are marketing aggressively with the focus changing more towards local visitors,” said Maud Sidzumo of the North West Parks and Tourism Board, during a three-day media sojourn in the province.

Seven journalists and travel writers from Gauteng, the Western Cape and Free State were invited to experience the hospitality and sites of the region. Arriving in Johannesburg, we were ferried by a minibus to our base camp at the Madikwe Game Reserve. We passed the Hartbeespoort dam and its water recreational activities and the Groot Marico region, popularised by author Herman Charles Bosman.

We stopped at Groot Marico for some home-made lunch at the naartjie-treed River Still guest farm.

Said Egbert van Bart of the Groot Marico information centre: ”There are more than 300 tree and bush species in the area, which (itself) is second only to northern Zululand in the number and variety of bird species found — more than 450 species.”

We tasted local mampoer made from naartjies. According to a tale by master brewer Johan Jordaan, the local mampoer so boosted the performance of an average Comrade’s marathon runner that he achieved a silver medal in the race.

Arriving at the malaria-free 75 000 hectare Madikwe Game Reserve towards the evening, we saw prancing buck and wildebeest at the entrance and later an elephant ambling past the main lodge.

Safely ensconced at what was to be our base lodge, Etali (or place of new beginnings), for two days, we were spoilt with every whim catered for by friendly and attentive staff.

Our individual suites comprised all the luxuries one would expect a five star establishment to have, including a private patio and whirlpool, spacious facilities with magnificent views of the immediate bushveld and a hearty fire to keep the evening cold at bay.

An early rise the following day and we were off in an open vehicle safari of the game reserve, whose animal population includes lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos, buffaloes, cheetahs and wild dog.

The drive took in several other lodges in the reserve. There are about 19 — nine commercial and 10 corporate lodges. According to Steven Mavromatis of the Madikwe River Lodge, the reserve offers something for everybody, except campers.

”From a marketing point of view anybody can access the reserve, because different sites cater for different niche markets and budgets,” he said.

People can visit the Mosetlha bush camp with its long-drop latrines and rough it, or they can go to the exclusive Mateya lodge which can accommodate a maximum of ten people at a cost of R5 000 a night per person sharing.

Mavromatis says Madikwe reserve is a ”post-apartheid park”, which came into existence after the new government came into power and did not carry with it the ”baggage and skeletons” as did other reserves throughout South Africa.

”This reserve is a role model for other reserves in the country at the moment because we have achieved the right balance in making money in order to conserve … we are one of the rare parks where there is a tripartite agreement between the community, concessionaires and park authorities,” he said.

We returned to Etali lodge in time for a glorious sunset and supper at a boma-style fire under a star-studded night sky, watched by a beady-eyed owl.

We retired, pigged out on the wonderful food offered and spiritually gorged on the peace and tranquillity of the bushveld.

On the last day we arose early and left, slowly negotiating past a thorn-bush tree knocked into the road by an elephant.

Our final destination was Sun City. Having just come from the earthy realism of Madikwe, Sun City’s larger-than-life architecture and sculptures and its ersatz decor were less than awe-inspiring, despite its appeal for many overseas and local visitors.

If they would also explore the delights of the Madikwe bush lands, they would, as seven intrepid travel hacks discovered, have a totally unforgettable trip. – Sapa