/ 11 May 2004

How to score in Portugal

Local soccer fans may be toying with the idea of making the trip to Portugal next month to watch Euro 2004. But grotty accommodation, overpriced hotels and “full” signs are close to putting many a would-be supporter off.

Don’t worry. There are dozens of gorgeous places with rooms still available. To enjoy the football, you don’t have to have a ticket to a match — just head down to the nearest square or bar and soak up the atmosphere.

Here’s a selection of properties in or near match venues.

Aveiro

Quinta da Comenda: The buildings are softened by a rampant camellia, which lends swathes of colour when in bloom. Rooms are equally impressive with polished parquet floors, elegant antique beds and pretty tiles in the bathroom. Lounge and dining room double up in a huge salao, which leads to the old wine cellar: Quinta da Comenda exports its prize-winning whites and rosés all over the world.

Telephone: +351 22 617 9889.

E-mail: [email protected].

Rates: Double = â,¬75; single = â,¬67; apartment = â,¬750 a week.

Pre-match warm-up: Visit historic Aveiro and Viseu. Go canoeing or swim in the river.

Watch the match: All restaurants, cafés and bars have TV sets.

Braga

Quinta do Tarrio: A historic farm, this delightful place sits in gardens of fruit trees and is surrounded by vineyards. The farmhouse is full of interesting antiques and artefacts, and the bedrooms are comfortable and quiet. There’s an attractive pool area and tennis court.

Telephone: +351 25 388 1558.

Rates: Suite for two = â,¬80; suite for four = â,¬110.

Pre-match warm-up: Visit Porto, Viano do Castelo and enjoy walking in the area.

Watch the match: Local bars.

Coimbra

Casa Pombal: At the heart of Coimbra, among narrow streets on a hill close to the famous seat of learning, you’ll find this delightful old townhouse. Four of the rooms have breathtaking views over the old city roofs and down to the Mondego river. Single folk will enjoy this place, as they’re bound to meet fellow travellers over breakfast or in the small courtyard.

Telephone: +351 23 983 5175.

Rates: Double = â,¬30 to â,¬48; single = â,¬28 to â,¬48.

Pre-match warm-up: Discover the historic centre, visit the old university and cathedrals. Figueira da Foz (45 minutes by car, an hour by train) is the nearest beach village.

Watch the match: Large screens will be placed on Praca de Republica and Praca do Cancao.

Faro

Casa Tres Palmeiras: From the Casa’s perch on the cliff, the view is a symphony of sea, sky and rock. The house was built in the 1960s. Rooms have marble floors, double sinks and fitted wardrobes. Best of all, they lead on to the terrace and sea-water pool. A path leads from the house down to the beach. No children under 12.

Telephone: +351 28 240 1275.

Rates: Double rooms = â,¬136 to â,¬199.

Pre-match warm-up: The beach, lawn bowls, golf.

Watch the match: Casa Tres Pal-meiras or in the local bars.

Pedras Verdes guest house: The house is North African in style. Each bedroom has a theme: baroque, African, Asiatic, Zen, Arabic. There are funky walk-in showers, plain walls, minimalist decor and Portuguese antiques. Dinner is French and delicious; the cocktails are sublime. No children.

Telephone: +351 28 972 1343.

Rates: Double = â,¬80 to â,¬95.

Pre-match warm-up: Sandy beaches are an eight-minute drive away. Visit nearby Faro and Albufeira; also Olhao, a typical Algarvian fishing town.

Watch the match: Local bars.

Guimaraes

Casal de Aboadela: Twist and turn along narrow lanes to this hamlet of old Douro farmhouses and vines, roses and oranges growing between them. The bedrooms are in the main house, attired in cottage style; just to one side in a converted outbuilding is the self-contained “stone little house”.

Telephone: +351 25 544 1141.

Pre-match warm-up: Visit Guimaraes, Porto, Ribeira; take a boat down the river Douro.

Watch the match: Village of Amarente or bars in Guimaraes or Porto.

Leiria

Quinta de Alcaidaria-Mor: This wisteria-clad manor has been the family seat for more than 300 years and is every inch the grand country house. In the rooms there are old dressers and Dona Maria beds, and a grand old bathtub with clawed feet.

Telephone: +351 24 954 2231.

Rates: Double = â,¬90 to â,¬115; apartments = â,¬115 to â,¬125.

Pre-match warm up: Visit the castles of Ourem, Porto de Mos, Almorol, Leiria Praias da Nazare, S Martinho do Porto, S Pedro de Moel; the convents in Tomar, Alcobaca, Batalha; the towns of Obidos, Constancia. See the dinosaur footprint near Fatima.

Watch the match: Local bars.

Lisbon

As Janelas Verdes: In the old city, just metres from the Museum of Ancient Art, is this aristocratic townhouse. You can breakfast on the patio on marble-topped tables. An old spiral staircase leads you to the rooms, some of which have views of the river Tejo.

Telephone: +351 21 396 8143.

Rates: Double = â,¬165 to â,¬195; luxury rooms = â,¬198 to â,¬245.

Pre-match warm-up: Take a boat trip, wander around Lisbon or take a train to pretty Sintra.

Watch the match: Large screens around town.

Sintra

Casa Miradouro: The striped walls of Casa Miradouro make it an easy place to find. Pass through a palm-graced porch, and a handsome staircase leads you up to the bedrooms with antique beds and high ceilings. Views are to the sea or to hills.

Telephone: +351 21 923 5900.

E-mail: casa-miradouro.com.

Rates: double = â,¬92 to â,¬122; single = â,¬80 to â,¬109.

Pre-match warm-up: Wander around Sintra and enjoy the monuments, culture and landscape.

Watch the match: Sintra will have a giant screen. It is a short train ride to Lisbon. — Â