The road to the new Thonga Beach Lodge is really no more than a set of criss-crossing sand paths across the towering coastal dunes that separate Lake Sibaya from the Indian Ocean coastline of Maputaland.
The track, which traverses the edge of an emerald-blue lake fringed by white beaches and some of the last coastal dune forest in South Africa, needs navigation by an experienced driver and a sturdy 4×4.
Although the journey is exquisite, in itself the destination is what really counts. The recently opened lodge is an upmarket beach getaway that redefines the term “barefoot luxury”.
With prices between R1 800 and R2 200 a person a night this establishment is not for your average Joe, and with good reason. The lodge is located on unspoilt shores and set into a canopy of indigenous hardwoods.
Twelve thatched chalets have been carefully constructed to limit environmental impact and are all linked by wooden walkways creating the feeling of a tree-top village. The rooms are raised on stilts and are decorated in pastel blues, greens and earth colours.
A large bath at the rear of the room is great for a relaxing soak while sipping champagne and peering out over the stunning slice of coastline. The ocean-facing side of the room is all glass with panoramic views of a Robinson Crusoe-type landscape and all-pervading space. It creates a sense that it’s just you, the ocean and the odd turtle or two.
The lodge’s entertainment area is open-plan with dining room, deck and bar opening on to each other. Massive milkwoods surround the lodge and shade the deck.
The rustic beach-lodge style bar begs for a heady cocktail. To its left is a short path to the small, circular pool and to its right a path that winds down to the beach. And what a beach it is.
Whether you are up for a peaceful walk, a romp in the crystal-clear water, some surfing, leatherback and loggerhead turtle-watching, or a little snorkelling and scuba diving, it’s all there for the taking.
Snorkelling enthusiasts can enjoy a two-hour route along the shallow reef — the southernmost coral in Africa, which pops up metres off the Mabibi beach and is home to a great variety of subtropical fish. There is also a launch for off-shore scuba diving or the possibility of a guided canoe trip on Lake Sibaya.
Located within the Greater St Lucia Wetland Park heritage site, the lodge has only been open for a month and, at present, only six of its rooms are operational. It is one of a set of new concession sites that has recently been awarded by the Wetland Park Authority for tourism-led development in the park. The developments have been awarded to joint ventures between residents and investors in an attempt to link conservation with job creation and economic growth.
The local Mabibi community owns 68% of the enterprise and has set up a trust to fund a bursary system for local children who can’t afford to further their education, as well as for schools and clinics.
Their private partner, Brett Gehren, has agreed to make 90% of the staff jobs at the lodge available to members of the community, who will get specific skills training.
This certainly seems to have benefitted the culinary skills at Thonga. Think Thai prawn soup, tender fillet steaks, the freshest ocean fish and a fantastic wine cellar. All served with a perfect view — paradise never tasted this good.
The lowdown
Thonga Beach Lodge in Mabibi, Greater St Lucia Wetland Park, can only reached by 4×4 so guests must arrange with management to be collected. Seaview rooms cost between R1 900 and R2 240 a night, depending on the time of year, while standard rooms are between R1 800 and R2 140. To make a reservation Tel: (035) 474 1473 or 082 466 8538.Visit www.isibindiafrica.co.za
Lloyd Gedye was hosted by the Greater St Lucia Wetland Park Authority