/ 2 December 2011

Getaways in and around Bloem

JRR Tolkien’s The Hobbit comes to the big screens in 2012 as a prequel to the Lord of the Rings.

Bilbo is back, along with Gollum, Gandalf, Legolas, Galadriel and the rest. But for those who cannot wait, book yourself a suite at Hobbit Boutique Hotel in President Steyn Avenue, Westdene. Everything about the Hobbit Hotel feels—well, charmingly Middle Earthy.

As one enters the premises, large ‘Knight’ chess pieces bow hospitably towards the visitor. The garden has just the right leafy textures (and swimming pool) and the house itself feels old, and English, and woody, and with each creaking step, the fantasy of going back to a far, faraway place seems more and more plausible.

Every room is individually furnished and themed (according to various Lord of the Rings characters), and if you’re lucky you’ll get a bed with it’s own teddy, and if you want Arwen’s room, or Strider’s room, say so.

Nice touches at Hobbit Hotel include goose down duvets, a fully stocked mini bar, satellite TV, sherry on arrival and chocolate turndown services. Visitors in winter are spoilt with electric blankets. The hotel is situated walking distance from Bloemfontein’s lively 2nd Avenue, which is home to the legendary Mystic Boer, Oolong Lounge, and Barba’s Café.

Mystic’s pizza’s are excellent, along with their music, from indie rock to funk to drum ‘n bass. Big names regularly perform at Mystic, including the likes of Arno Carstens. Diagonally across the road is Oolong Lounge, an upmarket watering hole specialising in cocktails for its trendy clientele. Right next door is a favourite student hangout, Barba’s Café.

If hunger is your primary driver, head around the corner to 7 on Kellner, one of Bloemfontein’s best restaurants, situated in a quaint house just down the road from Freshford House Museum. The following menu is highly recommended: carpacio as a starter, Beef Medallions in mushroom cream sherry sauce for your main meal and frozen berries covered in white chocolate for dessert.

Given the quality of the food, and the enjoyable atmosphere, prices are quite reasonable. For something slightly more hardcore, head out to the Vulture Club off Haldon Road (use these GPs Co-ordinates: S 29 9.099, E 26 5.594). Besides good music, cheap booze, a friendly crowd and modest accomodation for hungover backpackers, there’s goat’s milk and cheese on the menu, along with a decent supply of Klipdrift.

If the veld (without a soundtrack or a whiskey) is more your scene, head out towards the airport, and take the Maselspoort turnoff. About 10km outside Bloemfontein is Slightly Nutty, a charming working farm setting that serves fine country style food, either on a wooden deck overlooking a kink in a river, or in an area overlooking a kiddies playground.

Slightly Nutty offers something similar to a petting zoo, with nearby critters (rabbits, donkeys, a feisty crow and a piggy) hanging around for a pat. It’s also a popular venue for kiddies parties. On the opposite side of Bloem is Emoya Hotel and Spa, which boasts a great restaurant and the popular Cheetah Experience besides its luxury Shanty accommodation facilities.

Emoya offers a 270 hectare game farm (and game drives) with around 33 species of wildlife including giraffe, springbuck, and gemsbuck. Meerkats and springhares have the run of the place, so keep your eyes open for these fairly tame animals. The Boer-war themed “Spookhuijs” (ghost house) restaurant overlooks a pleasant pond paddled by ducks and wild birds.

The overall design of the estate makes it an ideal venue for weddings and team building programs. To find your way to Emoya, follow Lucas Steyn road through Heuwilsig, due west past Tempe for around 5km (or 1km beyond the Woodland Hills exit).

For those on a shoestring budget who want to plonk themselves in the thick of things, Naval Hill Backpackers provides an unusual stay, and one that is especially popular with international visitors. Situated on the bottom slopes of the Franklin Game Reserve, in a refurbished pump house built in 1896, the backpackers has an interesting interior that resembles corrugated iron shacks.

On the grounds surrounding the backpackers is an open area available for camping, with sweeping views over the city. It’s also within walking distance of Bloemfontein’s Tolkien Trail.

Finally, the 86 hectare Seven Dams Conservancy area (owned by the Mangaung Local Municipality), situated off Gascony Road in Pentagon Park, is worth a mention. The area itself, filled with whispering yellow grasses and peppered with koppies, has a combination of dolerite dykes and sheet rock sills, which cover underlying sedimentary rocks. These dolerite dykes and sills were laid down in a molten state about 65 million years ago, so the site could also be called ‘Jurassic Park‘.

The seven dams were originally built by the British using the natural rock in the area in order to keep their horses hydrated during the Boer War. Besides the variety of ancient archaeological sites (dating back 250 000 years), there are plenty of birds in the area, including Fish Eagles.

Today the Conservancy, which borders the Botanical gardens, is frequented by mountain bikers, dog walkers, joggers, picnickers and locals just out for a little fresh air. Entry is free, and since the small reserve is right on the urban fringe, it offers a safe and accessible natural space to stretch out and enjoy the sunshine.

This article originally appeared in the Mail & Guardian newspaper as an advertorial supplement