Love affairs. We'd like them to be bright and breezy, like pompoms and smiles. But they are not. For love affairs, while they have their breezy side, are complex and dark. Well, that's how it's been for me in Africa these past few years that have seen me exploring its contours, from Luanda to Lagos. During my travels I discovered I was following in the footsteps of Mary Kingsley, a controversial explorer, who, a century ago, followed the same route.