A quacker of a time in Tulbagh

On a random Tuesday in March this year, I found myself sipping a flat white in Wolseley. Through a somewhat happenstance, I ended up in a conversation with local, Gavin Meiring.

While I sipped my coffee, Meiring told me of his Day at the Duck Race event, scheduled for late 2022. Somewhat befuddled, I enquired further, not quite sure how one would coax ducks into swimming in line, as it were, with one’s will; let alone to cross a finish line first. A line that had money on it. A further two flat whites and things began to make sense (they make really good coffee at the Creative Hub in the Witzenberg Valley).

Duck what?

As it turns out, the Day at the Duck Race event is actually several races involving little yellow plastic ducks, like the ones you buy at Crazy Store, all in aid of charity. Spectators at the event adopt a pre-numbered duck for a fee, with the ducks facing off in a particular race dropped into a section of a river. Races held include a Veterans Race, Kiddies Race and a Corporate Race. Pool noodles are used to guide the hopeful yellow contenders as they “paddle”towards the finish line. Should your adopted duck win, or place well, you are rewarded with a prize. 

The first such race is believed to have been held in 1987 in Ottawa, Canada, while another urban legend holds that the first race took place in 1980 in Dyserth, Wales. The largest race took place on London’s River Thames on 31 August 2008. The Great British Duck Race saw 250 000 blue ducks doing battle, all for a good cause.

Local is where it’s at

Following my serendipitous meeting with Meiring, I had built up quite an expectation of the big day, telling anyone who would listen of my upcoming Tulbagh duck-racing exploits. The quirkiness of it all appealed to the atypical side of me, as I imagined a menagerie of plastic allies navigating the river, each one set to cross the finish line first.

The South African race was held in October along the banks of the Boontjies River outside Tulbagh in the Western Cape. Meiring’s Day at the Duck Race event turned out to be a great family outing with the weather playing along marvellously.

Market stalls offered local wares for sale, food trucks provided fare to hungry guests and Krone flowed as is appropriate in the winelands. 

A decorating stand allowed younger guests to unleash their creative prowess as ducks were customised, blinged and pimped. A clever trick, as it turned out, because it pays to be able to identify your particular yellow friend in a sea of fellow-yellows. Renowned local party band Mr and Mr Green and Denve Jacobs & The Rockstone Band ensured frivolities continued long past the last race.

I was well-rewarded that Saturday afternoon outside Tulbagh, as just under 600 bejewelled ducks, across various races, entertained me. 

The smile of so many yellow ducks will forever be ingrained in my mind, as I hot-footed it from one strategic point along the Boontjies River to the next, all the while keeping an eye on my fella. Sadly, my little champ did not win, But R15 000 was raised on the day for Chain Boland, an animal rescue organisation and beneficiary of the event. 

Over the event’s lifespan of three seasons, more than R50 000 was raised for various charities. 

Unpacking Tulbagh

Just a 90-minute drive from the Mother City, Tulbagh is a fascinating place that is ideal for a last-minute road trip out of Cape Town. My spot of duck racing would allow me an opportunity to truly get under the skin of the fourth-oldest town in South Africa, and discover a little more of what it has to offer.

Named for then-Dutch Cape Colony Governor Ryk Tulbagh, the town is located in the Land van Waveren mountain basin, with the Witzenberg Mountains to the east. An earthquake in 1969 caused much damage to the town, particularly along the historic Church Street. 

Following the disaster, several restoration projects were commissioned and today Tulbagh is said to contain the largest number of Cape Dutch, Edwardian and Victorian provincial heritage sites in one South African street. Here is my must-do list when visiting Tulbagh.

1. Stay here

A mere seven-minute drive from town, Raptor Rise Guest Farm is well-situated in the Valley of Abundance to serve as your base while exploring Tulbagh. 

My quaint self-catering cottage, called the Foundry Suite, is ideal for two couples to share, or for a small family. The semi-private garden offers breathtaking views of the surrounding Witzenberg and Winterhoek mountains.

The farm is home to four rescue horses and has stables, which adds to the country feel, thanks in part to owner Jeremy Mackintosh’s wife also being the local vet. 

Jeremy helped mount a rescue operation to retrieve the drone I had drowned early on the Sunday morning before leaving town. It seems abundance in this valley flows over in friendliness too.

There are various accommodation offerings on the property. Check out the great deals Raptor Rise is currently offering when you book directly via their website.

2. Eat here

One of the biggest surprises on my Tulbagh sojourn was the latest foodie offering along Church Street – Daphnes. The interiors of this heritage house have been finished in moody tones of black, dark greens and rose golds, while selected items from the owner’s collection of South African art lend an air of sophistication.

The delectably flaky fish cakes, served as starters, were to be my introduction to a glorious evening of dining. Mains would see me enjoy a succulent serving of roast loin of pork stuffed with peaches and paired with truffle mashed potato and seasonal vegetables, accompanied by a port sauce reduction. Contemporary dining, along a historic street.

Daphnes will soon expand its offering to include Sunday jazz lunches on their back lawn, so keep an eye on their social media accounts for the latest. If you find yourself in Church Street at mid-morning, try the legendary French Toast at Daphne’s. Arrive hungry, you’ll thank me later.

3. Do this

Head over to the Vindoux Guest Farm and Spa. They offer bicycles to rent as part of their Wine by Bike experience, which allows you to visit neighbouring wine farms. Tastings are optional, but most definitely recommended. I jumped on my bike and headed for the nearby Saronsberg Cellar. The property is home to a collection of contemporary South African artworks, including a significant sculpture component. Enjoy a Saronsberg Cap Classique as you sit on the lawns and take in the art. If you enjoy a long, elegant, dry finish; you’ll love this one.

There are many wine farms to explore in the valley, it all depends on how much (or little) time you have to take them in.

If you’re in town, head back to Church Street and find Wittedrift Manor. Carol Collins runs Tulbagh Tuk Tuk’s from the property, which is a great way to explore the historic town. They offer standard routes but are open to your suggestions. Enjoy an olive oil tasting at Oakhurst Olives, a stop at Twee Jonge Gezellen for some bubbly and art stops throughout the town. Carol also runs Readers Restaurant and provides a picnic lunch at Oude Compagnie, next door to Raptors Rise.

4 . Don’t miss this

While MIT may conjure up visions of somewhat serious students and people solving quadratic equations across the Atlantic Ocean, this is not the case in Tulbagh. Made In Tulbagh is a delightful shop on the main thoroughfare through town, Van der Stel Street.

MIT stocks items made by locals, but not in the kitsch way so often associated with tourism done badly. Everything from leather goods, knitwear, local brews and an array of interesting items, plus works of art, are available to remind you of your time in the valley. I bought two knitted pot plant holders for my home. 

5 Make a proper road trip

Instead of following the quickest route from Cape Town to Tulbagh, you could take a more scenic route that includes a stretch on the R43 road through the mountains. Stop off at the Fynbos Café and Farmstall to enjoy some of the freshest produce and home-cooked goodness in the valley. Look out for the blue coffee truck as you enter, they make a mean iced coffee.

Taking the longer route allowed me to enjoy the hybrid Volvo XC60, my travel companion on this trip. With an 18.8kWh battery ideal for town-based electric driving, and a 2.0-litre turbo-charged petrol engine for the highways, the car makes for a great first step towards full electric mobility. Plus your green soul can rest easier. 

With my travel writer soul satiated from the experience of Tulbagh, I reflected on my weekend of heritage, fine food, racing ducks and champers. I realised the valley that harks back to 1699 never fails to surprise in her offering.