Food: Ferial Haffajee
There’s nothing like a steaming packet of slap (pronounced slup) chips to sate a raging appetite. Like cricket, slap chips are a great example of how the colonised took the ball – or in this case the spud – and ran with it. The potato chip, South African style, is barely comparable to the lesser vinegar-soaked English variety rolled up in a tatty piece of The Sun.
That’s not to say every local chip is perfect. I’ve eaten many a glassy, messy, refried chip passed off as the real thing. But Zulfikaar’s in Mayfair, Johannesburg makes the quintessential slap chip. Soft like mashed potato on the inside and crisply fried on the outside, the perfect chip must be fried while you wait. Burning hot when you pop it in your mouth, size does count. The slap chip must be long, but not so unwieldy that it breaks and falls to the ground as you pick one from the butchers wrap in which the tasty morsels are served.
Zulfikaar’s has been a famous family eatery for generations. It started its first branch in Fordsburg, catering for the crowds who flocked to the Majestic and Lyric cinemas before Nu-Metro and Ster-Kinekor were colour blind.
The bevy of kitchen staff were trained to cut the perfect chip with a precision that makes McDonalds look amateur. Once fried, it is spread on the butcher paper and spiced liberally with salt, vinegar and masala. The latter is standard, so shout loud if you don’t want any. Zulfikaar’s is not for the genteel or gentle: you must elbow your way to the front of the queue, catch the eye of the owner’s pretty daughter and place your order firmly. Repeat it at rush-hour just to make sure they’ve got it.
Chips can be ordered by the packet. They also come in a roll with different fillings. Called a “special”, this can either be made with only chips (for vegetarians), fish, polony, frikkadel, steak and anything else on the menu that grabs your fancy. The special is stuffed with salad and with atchaar to finish it off. Zulfikar’s fare is best eaten in jeans (to wipe your greasy hands on) and sitting flat on the pavement.
Zulfikaar’s is on Church Street, Mayfair Telephone: (011) 837-6080