With diamonds sponsoring guns in West and Central Africa, Nechama Brodie explores the options for girls (and guys) in need of a new best friend. Are diamonds the new ivory? Cut, colour, clarity and carat. Words to set any girl’s pulse racing. But the famous four “Cs”, used to judge the quality of a diamond, now have a shadier companion: Conflict.
Like their ignoble cousin, ivory, illicit diamonds (sourced from war-torn Angola or the Democratic Republic of Congo) are indistinguishable from their pedigreed siblings forcing hundreds of socially responsible fashionistas to seek more acceptable alternatives.
And while it might be easy to shun granny’s mink, or an imported Pashmina (“So cruel to those poor goats, you know …”), it’s a little harder to bite the status bullet and invest in cubic zirconia no matter what the adverts say. Luckily, seasonal trends have provided a range of options glamorous enough to suit any style or budget.
The return of Eighties-style angularity and excess to the catwalks has meant that it’s more than just an era being reflected: everything from diamant to sequins and rhinestone twinkle off the ears, hips, arms and busts of statuesque models.
Couturiers have given a new twist to matric dance favourites, creating an instant hit with multi-layered and single-strand diamant belts, transforming casual capris and dirty denims into objects of desire. Punk rock, glam rock even rhinestone cowboys … Everyone’s welcome, so long as they shine.
It’s a look that has been transferred quite literally on to the growing genre of body art, with Swarovski Crystals releasing their highly desirable range of crystal tattoos last year and expanding the range for the 2000 season. The Austrian-based company has also made substantial additions to its jewellery and accessory ranges. And if you’re worried that Swarovski jewellery means wearing one of those damn swans roped around your neck, think again: the colourful crystal bracelets that adorned the wrists of women everywhere last season have matured into intricate chokers, brooches and earrings.
Despite the unimaginative names of the ranges (“Soft and Loving” and “Hippie Chic”), my guess is these objects will quickly make the top of the Christmas lists.
If it’s real rocks you’re after, there are myriad, multi-hued choices but be warned that each finely faceted gem comes with its own sort of baggage.
At up to R2?100 per cut carat, Tanzania’s endemic gem, tanzanite (named by Tiffany’s, in honour of its origin), is undoubtedly deserving of the epithets bestowed on it (“It’s richness of colour and lustre mysteriously obsess a person who sees it [sic] …” reads one tribute). But the unique blue gem also has an unfortunate history of illegal and dangerous mining practices, despite the resumption of state-approved operations in the Seventies and attempts to regulate and improve conditions. If you’re prepared to do your homework though, tanzanite could be a satisfying solution. And mining disasters do have their consolations: tanzanite prices generally shoot through the roof. Traditional coloured gems may also have dubious pedigrees. Aside from the extensive child labour problem in the gem mining and polishing industry (India and Thailand have both been cited by international labour and human rights groups), countries like Burma famed for its rubies and sapphires use legal gem exports to finance an oppressive military junta. Once again, a thorough investigation is required before making any kind of moral or financial commitment.
If the future of gems has lost a little of its brilliance, there’s nothing dull about the past: vintage and antique diamonds are an excellent option offering novelty and sparkle value in equal amounts, as well being sound investments. You’re also immediately absolved of any associated guilt, simply by virtue of the passage of time.
Ranging from hideously expensive to relatively affordable, genuine antique stones exhibit an exciting array of cuts that distinguish them from the mass-produced, laser treated look of modern diamonds (and make for an intriguing history lesson).
The contemporary round brilliant cut (developed in the 1940s, with 58 facets) was predated by the rose cut (flat on the bottom with an irregularly faceted top), the old European cut and the old mine cut (each with only 48 facets) and while the same “Cs” apply, with older gems it’s the cut that counts the most.
Remember though not to bore your admirers with facts while trying to impress them with dangling carats.