Think of Phalaborwa. Think hot. And dry. But not unpleasant. In fact, I was pleasantly surprised by the bushveld town, in spite of five hours on the road from Pretoria.
It’s clean, friendly and slowly getting used to welcoming tourists, both local and international. The only trouble with Phalaborwa is that it is generally used as a passing-through staging post by visitors on their way to the Kruger National Park, which has a gate just outside the town.
Its proximity to other staging post-type centres like Tzaneen and Hoedspruit make it an ideal stopover en route to somewhere generally more interesting.
But of late the locals have cottoned on to the fact that, with the attraction of wild Africa on its doorstep, there is a viable cottage-type industry to be reaped and slowly bed and breakfast, guest house and small, lodge-type accommodation is springing up.
Not that there is a lack of larger, grander places to stay.
In fact, Phalaborwa is home to a place South Africans have been flocking to for many years — the Hans Merensky Hotel and Estate.
Established in 1967 as a premier golf club, the Hans Merensky course is ranked in the South African top 20. But it has become so much more than a country club.
Originally designed as a social club for the adjacent Rio Tinto Zinc’s Cleveland mine, the Hans Merensky Hotel and Estate has now shuffled off its mining coils to join the ranks of luxury hotels within housing estates next to golf courses — Ã la Arabella, Fancourt and Leopard Creek.
But it is also so much more than what is ubiquitously termed “a lifestyle destination”. Yes, you can spend a few million and get your dream house in the bush next to one of the top golf courses in this part of the world, but rather spend a couple of thousand and spend a few days enjoying all of the facilities with your nearests and dearests at what is essentially a family holiday resort.
But, you’ve guessed it, Hans Merensky is actually more than a family holiday destination. It’s hard to categorise because it has so many different elements.
There’s the golf, of course, and thankfully it’s very unsnobby golf, with children more than welcome to play with their parents. There’s also tennis, air-conditioned squash courts, swimming pools aplenty and a fully-equipped gym and sauna for the energetic.
Game of a different, wilder kind is to be found throughout the estate, which borders the Kruger National Park and the Cleveland Game Reserve — established by the mine when it decided it was better to join Mother Nature than try and beat her!
Indeed, from a golfing perspective, it is strange to tee off next to admiring giraffes and appreciative warthogs, all of which seem to be keen supporters of the game.
The hotel complex is sprawling and quintessentially African, with acres of space under thatch. It’s cozy and welcoming and, most importantly, cool. It also boasts some of the nicest interior finishes I have seen in a long time, with lots of sleeperwood timber, interesting works of art and soft furnishings.
There are a range of accommodation options, from 34 standard hotel rooms facing the main swimming pool and bar to 20 cluster-style rooms around their own pool and bar, 18 golf course-perimeter chalets overlooking the course, 10 estate double-chalets and 12 deluxe chalets.
All are furnished in the same African style as the main hotel complex and have mini-bar fridges, air-conditioning, ceiling fans, en-suite bathrooms, hairdryers, satellite TV and direct-dial phones.
The estate double-chalets have two double-bedrooms opening on to a communal lounge area overlooking the course. The rooms are comfortable and well maintained and offer a marvellous respite from the daytime temperature, which soared to 39ÞC while I was there.
Because the rooms are not on top of one another in a confined space, there is a nice feeling of openness on the estate. Walking to the different facilities is like a stroll in the bush, with accompanying vervet monkeys and the occasional baboon or impala.
After 6pm you are not allowed to walk anywhere and a transfer service operates from the main hotel complex to the rooms — a driver in a golf cart collects you and delivers you safely to your room. This is a precaution taken to avoid after-dark confrontations with the likes of lion and leopard, which have been spotted on the course at night.
The main hotel complex houses the Leadwood restaurant, where guests can avail themselves of an excellent à la carte menu. Outside there is a lapa, where buffet braais are regularly served. Both offer a very nice English breakfast each morning.
The pool bar offers a pub-lunch-style menu, as does the club house, and there’s a pizza oven, too.
In addition, there’s the “Koppie” —literally a hilltop on the estate where informal braais and potjies can be arranged.
The food is good, but unfortunately the service can be a little on the slow side, although for the most part the staff are friendly and accommodating.
Of course, with wild Africa on its doorstep, the Hans Merensky Hotel and Estate offers some interesting game drives into the adjacent Cleveland Game Reserve. The night drive in particular is an experience, stopping for sundowners on the deck of the Olifants River Bush Lodge, which is also owned by the estate. This private lodge consists of five en-suite units offering luxury accommodation for 10 people — with a communal lounge and dining room, and a small plunge pool set into the lovely timber deck overlooking the Olifants river.
It’s an exclusive little getaway and ideal for small groups or business people wanting a private indaba or bosberaad out of reach of telephones, cellphones and computers.
The Cleveland reserve is a private facility, which only guests of the estate have access to.
Of course, the mother of all game reserves, the Kruger National Park, is a 1,2km drive from the estate. The park is always beautiful and even here, where it is parched and seemingly devoid of game, there’s something to please the eye at every turn.
For those interested in exploring a little further afield, the hotel offers a number of tour options such as a full-day visit to the Blyde River Canyon, which includes Bourke’s Luck Potholes and Pilgrim’s Rest for R490 a person for a minimum of four people in an air-conditioned minibus.
The lowdown
It is possible to put together a fly-in package to Hans Merensky Hotel and Estate, flying to Phalaborwa Gateway or Hoedspruit Eastgate airports. SA Airlink operates three daily services to Phalaborwa airport. Call (011) 987 1111.
Transfers can be arranged with the hotel. Transfers are complimentary for up to 10 people to and from Phalaborwa airport. For groups of 10 or more the price is R150 a person, one way. From Hoedspruit the charge is R280 a person, one way, for a minimum of two people.
Driving in is the best option for those within easy driving distance of the estate. The recommended route is to take the N4 to Belfast, then the R540 to Lydenburg, from where you take the R36 through the Strijdom tunnel and the R570 to Hoedspruit, turning onto the R530 to Phalaborwa.
The accommodation rates at Hans Merensky Hotel and Estate are R520 a person a night, sharing, for standard hotel and cluster-style rooms; R560 a person a night, sharing, for golf course-perimeter chalets; R680 a person a night, sharing, for deluxe chalets and R1 800 a night for an estate double-chalet. All prices include breakfast each day.
There is a seasonal special in operation until the end of the Christmas holidays offering three nights’ accommodation, breakfast and dinner daily for R1 850 a person, sharing.
Rates for Olifants River Bush Lodge are R1 070 a person a night, sharing, for a minimum of two people. This rate includes two game drives each day, breakfast, a light lunch and dinner daily, tea, coffee, rusks, snacks and a sundown drink each day. Contact Hans Merensky Hotel and Estate on Tel: 015 781 3931 or go to www.golfinthewild.com