/ 5 December 1997

Brandy gets a facelift

Melvyn Minnaar : Potable pleasures

If Dop-en-Dam at one stage suffered an image problem of hairy white legs and powder-blue crimplene safari suits, and Klippies-en-Coke got a bit of a character knock in the theatre, it wasn’t that there was anything amiss with the brandy used for those seriously traditional drinks.

Brandy, after all, has long been in South Africa – and if they hadn’t got it right, we’d all have taken to witblits by now. The truth is that the quality of brandy produced in our fair land is astounding.

While the 325th anniversary of South African brandy was celebrated this year, our traditional dop has been given a facelift and designer content – ready for a new age. Among the exciting developments, is the establishment of a “Brandy Route” in the Cape’s vineyards and the release of some classy stuff.

As more and more enterprising wine farmers start to make classic pot-stilled brandy, and the big brandy boys are also catching on to an upgraded image, the liquor is getting better and more interesting.

According to, yes, the South African Brandy Foundation, the local industry is performing better than ever before.

With 1996 sales in excess of 50-million litres, it is still rising. Growth of 28% over the past five years has resulted in a retail value of more than R1-billion. At the end of last year, brandy represented 64% of local spirits sales.

“South Africa is currently the fifth- largest brandy-producing country in the world, with an annual production of some 50-million litres,” says Pietman Retief, director of the foundation. The top four brandy producing countries are Germany, Spain, Mexico and the United States.

Legend has it that the first South African brandy was distilled on May 19 1672 by a cook on board the VOC ship, De Pijl. No doubt the colonising business required proper fortification.

“We don’t know much about this formidable man or his brandy, except that after his first batch, the Cape became a much livelier place,” says Retief with a grin.

“One can call it a national drink. It is enjoyed by South Africans of all classes and race groups. Due to the quality and variety of styles, it is a product with character.”

It is the competition between the many brand-names and different styles which has sustained and increased brandy’s consumer role. Of course, brandy is relatively inexpensive as well. Now tourists in the Cape can also go on the Brandy Route. The idea came about as more and more brandy cellars were opening their doors to visitors.

“The brandy foundation would like to show the workings of the industry to the public because once people have seen how much attention, time and knowledge is put into each bottle of brandy, they will develop a greater respect for the product,” says Retief.

The cellars on the route are: Van Ryn, Backsberg, Paarl Rock, Cabrire, Olof Bergh and the KWV. There is also the Oude Molen Museum. The South African Brandy Foundation can be contacted on (021) 887-3157.