Castle Mandawa rises above ribbons of dust, a labyrinth of cobbled bylanes, the pungent aroma of baking cow dung cakes and a maze of wheezing buses and bullock carts.
The 18th century fort overlooks bustling Mandawa town in the northwestern Indian state of Rajasthan’s Shekhawati region, once an important trading post on the desert caravan routes between India and central Asia.
You can drive, walk or cycle through its imposing wooden gates.
Or you can make a dignified entrance through the ”Royal Welcome”, where – for a hefty fee – caparisoned horses and camels will stand at attention as you are led up a kilometre-long path to the vigorous beating of drums and gentle swaying of folk dancers.
Like Castle Mandawa, spread across the desert state, are forts and palaces that have converted easily into heritage hotels.
The lavish, sprawling residences of kings and queens became difficult to maintain after India became independent from British rule on August 15, 1947. The princely states were merged with the Indian union and the royals were left without a kingdom.
In the 1980s, some decided to convert their magnificent properties into hotels to generate revenue and ensure the palaces and forts – some decaying from neglect and lack of funds – would be restored.
They insist the transformation was not difficult, as palaces had always been centres of entertainment and hospitality.
Last February, the Indian Heritage Hotels Association (IHHA) launched a website to promote 83 royal properties. IHHA president and former ruler of Jodhpur, Gaj Singh, said: ”Most of our member hotels actually have their owners still in residence, and offer the most personalised hospitality experience that you would expect when you stay at someone’s home.”
Much of that old world charm exists at Castle Mandawa, where time stands still, its passing only measured by the gentle reverberations of a large brass gong struck on the hour by the resident timekeeper.
Discrete staff ensure you can explore the sprawling fort undisturbed, sunbathe under an ancient cannon or curl up with a book in the Diwan Khana – a room where the ruler held court surrounded by obsequious courtiers and fawning subjects.
It is still decorated with ancestral portraits, weapons, dazzling silver thrones with velvet blue seats and lion-head armrests, and frescoes with haunting images of life so many hundred years ago.
Look up and you see rows of tiny, carved windows, which were part of the ”zenana” or women’s sequestered quarters, from where they would get a glimpse of the day’s visitors.
Rajasthan’s heritage hotels are a harmonious blend of the traditional and the modern minimalist. No one room is the same.
They are decorated in warm reds, vibrant oranges and comforting blues; old paintings and sepia-toned family portraits adorn the walls; they have antique furniture, intricately-carved doors that open onto large private balconies and sitting areas with marble fountains.
Some rooms have been left virtually untouched, like one in Castle Mandawa that has a fresco dating back to 1790.
Jodhpur city’s Ajit Bhawan – said to be the state’s first heritage hotel – has unique bungalows, each with its own theme. You can eat at the ”dhani”, the traditional dining area decorated with earthen pots, or you can take a spin in one of the former ruler’s vintage cars.
At the Devigarh Palace Hotel – an 18th century fort about 10 kilometres from Udaipur city restored over a 10-year period – there are spectacular, plush suites decorated with semi-precious stones.
Wherever you choose to stay, each room comes with a surprise: A hidden staircase, a low wooden door – bend and you will be transported into the whispering secrets of a dark alcove, a large wooden chest that holds age-old mysteries, a yellowing diary with fading thoughts, maybe a few dreams.
All the resorts have rooms with electronic comforts discreetly hidden. They also usually have swimming pools, health clubs and facilities available in more modern hotels.
The 14th century Pokaran fort has none of these amenities, but is equally charming because of the effortlessly friendly staff that ensures a few days here is more like staying with old friends.
While Pokaran is known the world over as the site of India’s 1998 nuclear tests, few know you can actually stay at the fort.
Ramzan Ali, who works at the fort, said, ”There is a museum here which displays rare weapons, ancient games and exotic dresses. This area was once famous as a royal hunting ground.”
If there is anything disappointing about the heritage hotels, it’s the food. With most guests coming on package tours, the menu is fixed according to what they select, generic Indian, Chinese or Continental fare. You could even get a frightful mix of all three.
Don’t go there for the food. Go for the rooms steeped in history, the bonfire around which guests sit and exchange stories, the musicians and dancers whose ancestors once entertained kings and queens.
Castle Mandawa has one endearing ”fire dancer”, a geriatric smiling angel with two blazing sticks in his hands who moved his arthritic legs from table to table, winking, swaying his hips to one side, grinning mischievously through his curled mustache.
His dance over, he bowed and said, ”Good night. Good bye. Remember, this is a place you will not leave willingly.” — Sapa