The Cedar Restaurant used to be a hole in the wall on a strip of Sea Point’s Main Road frequented by les filles de joie. The slogan on the window said: “You’ve tried the rest, now try the best.” On display were two trays of contracting baklava. To get in you pressed the buzzer on a security gate.
Lacking all pretension, the interior was lit by bright white neon and a swathe of duvet fabric secured above the loudspeakers hinted at a tent. The chairs had no backs and no arms. “It will teach you posture,” said Munchkin, who introduced me to the establishment.
There were only five tables. On my first visit all were occupied by men. “That’s authentically Middle Eastern,” I commented. “It’s Sea Point,” said Munchkin, “they’re gay.”
Snapshots of patrons adorned one wall. I noticed the visage of a particular food critic, well known for his teetotal habits that had become a necessity after a long career.
Elsewhere the tourist vision of an exotic clime was presented with postcard pictures of the 2000-year-old Roman ruins at Baalbeck, ruins that have a grace about them that the bombed-out high-rises of Beirut will never eclipse.
The only false economy was an attempt at modern convenience with wall-to-wall carpet tiles.
Lebanese music played, unfortunately not Fairouz, but redolent of distant travels. The patriarch sat squinting at a television with the sound turned off while taking long drags on a hubbly-bubbly. Surely the minister of health has made a cultural allowance?
“We have more food in the kitchen that is not on the menu!” declared the menu. From my travels around the Levantine the opposite is usually true – and sometimes there was a lot of food actually stuck to the menu. But the Cedar Restaurant was always spotless.
A few years ago it expanded into a mid-sized restaurant in the Courtyard building, also home to Fujiyama. You still need to buzz to get in. Inevitably it has lost a little of its charm, but most patrons will be happier with its new seating and fractionally more upmarket style. Now sporting a full wall trompe l’oeil mural of the six standing columns of the Temple of Jupiter, it remains family run and as homely and down to earth as ever. The television is still there, but discreetly faces the reception counter. It does not have wine list, so take your own bottle.
The specials vary according to what Mama has decided to cook, but most items on the menu are in the kitchen. From the meze (R40 each), which come with pita bread, I recommend the baba ganouj (grilled aubergine with yoghurt and sesame puree), the potato harra (mostly fried cauliflower with cubed potatoes, nuts and a secret sauce) and labneh, a homemade cream cheese.
It has two salads (R45 each): fattoush, a green salad with pieces of deep-fried pita drizzled in a tasty pomegranate dressing, and tabbouleh, made from the freshest chopped parsley, diced tomatoes and onion and bulghur wheat. It has happened that too much lemon has been squeezed over it, but generally this is not a dish you want to miss. Order it and share it with the mezes.
For mains (average price R50) inquire what’s cooking. The only miss I’ve had was the minced lamb yoghurt pie, which was tasteless. Of the meats, the chicken thighs cooked in a lemon infusion is consistently good. If the okra stew is on the menu, have it. This vegetable is a well-kept secret from the West. Mama makes it with or without lamb, but I prefer her vegetarian version for its purity of taste.
In fact, the Cedar is one of the best places to take vegetarians. The ful madammas is a stew of chickpeas and fava beans with tomato and vinegar. There is also a chickpea special with tahini and tomato. And, of course, falafel, served with hummus and salad.
For a delicious, unfussy dinner at reasonable prices, the Cedar Restaurant rates as one of Cape Town’s best.
The Cedar Restaurant, Courtyard Building, 100 Main Road, Sea Point. It is open from Monday to Saturday for lunch (11am to 3pm) and for dinner (from 5pm). Tel: 021 433 2546.