Our government, whether national or the opposition in regional power, seems almost unable to do anything without somehow involving food (and wine): gala dinners, banquets, talk shops, networking lunches, conferences and, perhaps the most ironic of all, quite a few million spent on budget-vote parties this past quarter. Unfortunately, one look at our portly ruling class and you can see where they put it all.
But political animals, party hacks, technocrats and policy wonks (for that matter journalists and artists too) need places to network quietly over a meal (hopefully on their own accounts). One of the favourite haunts with a sterling reputation was Rozenhof. It was quite a blow to many last year when, after 25 years, the proprietor Robert Mulders was forced to shut down because of rental hikes. The landlords have subsequently paved over the little garden and turned this charming historical house into an office court.
The good news is Mulders has now opened a new restaurant, and one right on Parliament’s doorstep, in the Idasa (Institute for Democracy in South Africa) building.
The restaurant, 6 Spin Street, is a clean, welcoming, airy space shared with a first-rate new bookshop. The building dates from 1902 and the elegant vaulted interior with wooden furnishings (patrons will recognise these from Rozenhof) has a functional fireplace.
Spin Street, so close to our political epicentre, actually derived its name from a failed experiment in silk-spinning set up on this spot 300 years ago by governor Willem Adriaan van der Stel.
Books, food and conversation make a lovely combination, further enhanced by the spectacular artwork commissioned by Idasa. Quite apposite to the philosophy of this establishment is Brendhan Dickerson and Petra Keinhorst’s giant figurative mobile, In the Balance, made of bronze and stainless steel — a metaphor for participatory government, emphasising the need to balance the weights of different stakeholders to achieve a harmonious democracy.
For lunch, the restaurant offers a parliamentarian’s and business set menu, what they call “A Quick Spin”. Within 50 minutes they guarantee you’ll have your starter, main course, a glass of very good wine and coffee for R150. A typical menu is a choice of chilled cucumber and yoghurt soup or a mixed six-leaf salad with sprouts and a soya orange vinaigrette, followed by a choice between fresh salmon on extra-fine beans with hollandaise sauce, or a lamb and rosemary pie.
You have a good chance of spotting public figures such as Barbara Hogan at this eatery.
The dinner menu has a few favourites from the former establishment, with starters such as the sizzling hot cheese soufflé (R70), and mains include Moroccan lamb with couscous (R165), roast fillet with mustard crust, mushroom ragout and Béarnaise sauce (R160), and linefish with fennel crust and Pernod butter sauce (R105). I do hope Mulders brings back his delicious guinea fowl and the crispy duck. For dessert, you should try the panna cotta with Smyrna figs (R40).
I have eaten here only once, but if the standards of Rozenhof are maintained, you can dine here with confidence.