Views of the city skyline from Signal Hill in Cape Town. (Dwayne Senior/Bloomberg via Getty Images)
Cape Town has always held romantic appeal for me, living here on the Rand, aka Joburg. They have that mountain, there’s a different quality of life down there and there are the ever-popular wine farms. I find this sense of romanticism has led me to evaluate my experiences in this part of our country largely on commercially entrenched markers of pleasure. Chief among these markers has always been time at a wine farm.
But there is so much more to time spent in the Western Cape than merely visiting wine farms, even if the wines are paired with all manner of items from chocolates to olive oils. So, on a recent visit, I decided to explore from the Atlantic Ocean to the hinterland of the province, without revelling in the production fields of the fruit of the vine.
Let me share what my exploits revealed.
The Grand Dame of the Waterfront
I don’t think you will ever rid me of it, and I’m good with that, but I enjoy being at the sea. Not so much the beach, mind you, too much sand there. But there’s something about spending time at the water’s edge that speaks to my Jozi soul. So, I started my travels where so many Cape Town adventures begin – at the V&A Waterfront.
Established in 1988, the V&A constituted a bold move to redevelop the docklands around the Victoria and Alfred Basins, themselves dating back to 1860. Central to Cape Town life today, as much as it was back then, the mixed-use development has since seen more than 24-million visitors, with the Victoria and Alfred Hotel taking pride of place in this heritage, as the first hotel to open.
Today, this rich history merges with luxury at the foot of Table Mountain, offering a stay that is imbued with a sense of serenity flowing from the mountain to the chilly Atlantic Ocean, both literally on your doorstep.
A balmy Cape Town evening made for just the right backdrop to explore what those 24-million other folks experienced – the various districts that make up the V&A Waterfront. Armed with the Walking Eye mobile app, I went exploring along the water’s edge. I found the GPS-based walking-tour app a great way to get to know the area, plus they have a few free tours available.
Meals at the V&A Hotel are served at Ginja Restaurant, a stone’s throw from the Atlantic. In keeping with the ambience of the hotel, Ginja has a welcoming, contemporary interior and a wide selection of dishes, not to mention cuisine styles. Opting for the seafood curry, complete with coconut rice, sambals and papadums, my meal made for a long, lazy time spent taking in the splendour of my surroundings.
Retiring to my room, I left the window open to extend my seaside indulgence, which turned out to be pure salve for the soul as I drifted off to the melodic sounds of that mighty ocean.
Since you’re at the V&A Waterfront, consider doing this
Take a stroll and experience the latest addition to the V&A Waterfront – Maker’s Landing. Touted as a small-food-business incubator, Makers Landing is also a food market celebrating our diverse South African culinary roots. Located alongside the new Cape Town Cruise Terminal, it’s an easy walk from the V&A Hotel and ideal for a lunchtime stop.
Shop, eat, drink and be merry at Makers Landing with delectably spicy Durban-style pickled vegetables from Charms Kitchen or a taste of the interestingly named Ugly Gin from Pienaar & Son.
An undulating roof in the Breedekloof Valley
Having (partially) satiated my Joburg-instilled urge to spend time at the sea, I headed northeast (ish) in search of a chapel on a farm, the roof structure of which was designed to reflect the silhouette formed by the Slanghoek mountains during golden hour.
I had visited Bosjes Farm previously, but only for a quick stop-and-go lunch hosted in the chapel. That was enough to spark a desire to return to more fully appreciate the beauty of this working Boland farm.
Just on a 90-minute drive from Cape Town, Bosjes Farm is ideal for an escape for the day to nature trip or a prolonged time of indulgence for those with more of the precious commodity time to hand.
Arriving just after midday, I headed straight for the Bosjes Kombuis, where Chef Nic presented his seasonal menu. Die Kombuis is housed in a structure that pays homage to the surrounding Waaihoek mountains through the use of high ceilings and glass walls plus a deck that lends itself to alfresco dining. I found myself tuning into the Bosjes ethos of celebrating the pristine nature all around and adapted my pace to this way of life rather quickly. Quite an adjustment for a Joburger, where fast-paced-do-three-things-at-once is actually a slow afternoon.
Having chatted to Nic, I settled for the mustard-crusted tuna loin with radish, sautéed spinach and salsa rouge. The Middle Eastern tabbouleh salad was the ideal complement to the uber-healthy tuna and made for a fine meal.
Looking to aid digestion, I took to the pathways which criss-cross the farm, immersing myself in the bosom of Mother Nature. Happening upon Die Winkel, I found an array of products from local craftsmen on sale, curated by Cape Town interior designer Liam Mooney. Of special interest was an art project undertaken in collaboration with the local school, available as tablecloths and napkins.
Die Spens, a short walk further on, offers deli-style light meals and an assortment of on-the-go fare, housed under a planted roof.
Evening game drives are available to guests overnighting at Die Skuur, the accommodation offering at Bosjes Farm. With several hides discreetly located across the Bosjes Bergkamp reserve, it was the ideal way to bid farewell to yet another marvellous day exploring the Western Cape. And cheers to no wine farm stops!
Die Skuur is evolving to increase its accommodation offering but, while on the farm, I settled into the Family Suite. Complete with a private main room, a lounge with a fireplace, and upstairs accommodation for three youngsters, the suite made for a home away from home.
Mooney has used clean, contemporary lines throughout the rooms, underscored by warm, earthy hues. The bespoke collection of Cape Town-themed books throughout Die Skuur had me settling in from time to time.
A highlight for me was the hours I had to photograph the iconic chapel. Having fully adapted to the slower pace of life so celebrated at Bosjes, I took my time capturing this beauty.
Since you’re at Bosjes Farm, consider doing this
As you’re smack-bang in the middle of the Breedekloof Valley, I recommend exploring Wolseley and its surrounds, where interesting things are afoot. Peppi Stanford is owner of The Creative Hub, a space that promotes the artwork of valley locals. Peppi is passionate about getting the word out and sharing what is happening in greater Wolseley.
While exploring with Peppi, I met the two Patricks. One is a creator of metal sculptures which blew my mind, in scale and concept, the other a leatherworker adept at crafting bags, belts and just about anything in between.
The valley is also home to Adene’s Farm Flowers, which grows a large range of unusual blooms using eco-friendly methods. Get your timing right and you could enjoy a stroll through their five hectares of floral bliss, but only between mid-December and the first week of April.
You can also enjoy gin tasting at Monks Gin, a great iced coffee from the Wolseley Coffee Truck parked at the Fynbos Café and Farmstall or a quick bite at Rietdakkie Farmstall and Kitchen.
Don’t overlook the hidden gem that is Wolseley.
My hinterland sojourn
And there I proved to myself, there is indeed more to spending time in the Western Cape than a mere assortment of wine farm stops. My Western Cape experience gave me a splendid combination of interesting activities and, indeed, the best of both worlds – the sea and the mountains. And so much to discover in between.
My romantic notions of Cape Town persist, only now they are infused with a large helping of often overlooked character, thanks to my travels.