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/ 5 February 2005

The vodka route

Whenever I travel — and when in polite society — I use a poached-eggs index to ascertain the overall quality of the place — by scoring the state in which the egg arrives at my table. My private, and more accurate, measure though, is that of the American oil baron JD Rockefeller, who once said: "Before choosing your hotel, order a martini. Then you’ll know about the quality of the establishment."