Reporter Khaya Koko reflects on what it took — logistically and emotionally — to travel to KwaZulu-Natal and speak to the slain activist’s family and neighbours
		
	 
	
		
			
				
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			 / 5 December 2007
			
		
		After putting his seedlings to bed in the world-famous Banaue rice terraces in the northern Philippines, farmer Gabriel Balicdon works as a tourist guide and buys rice from the grocer. Built by Ifugaos — illiterate mountain farmers and woodcarvers — at about the same time the Pyramids of Egypt and the Great Wall of China were being constructed, the terraces look like giant staircases leading to the clouds.