Local threads, global dreams

Being a city kid means I have a globalised perspective on a lot of things. Although I have a pro-African stance on most matters, admittedly, this can tend to end up as ideological rather than  manifest in my lived experiences. This is true of my fashion preferences. 

From silhouettes to fabrics, designers to trends, my gaze feels a tad influenced by those beyond the borders of Mzansi. 

Now, is this a bad thing? Not at all. (Shhhhh, don’t call me out if I’m self-soothing here.) Since the boom of global trade centuries ago, the intersectionality of cultures has metamorphosed what were once foreign customs into a melting pot of expressions with threads stretching from Shanghai to Bloemfontein. 

That said, it came as no surprise to me to learn of the Asian and European influence on Basotho culture, and now modern-day Free State, through the introduction of textiles such as cotton and indigo-dyed fabrics in the 16th century. 

This put into perspective the global ambitions of the Free State Fashion Week (FSFW). The showpiece event is taking place on 12 and 13 September, with the FSFW Women’s Day Business and Fashion Fest taking place on Women’s Day at the Bloemfontein City Hall. 

With Miss Universe 2019 Zozibini Tunzi set to host the event, a performance by Ami Faku and a guest appearance from media personality and musician Unathi Nkayi, the City of Roses is set to bloom brighter than usual.

FSFW not only highlights fashion and trendsetting styles, but also promotes cultural heritage, creativity and diversity. 

“I think our style is raw and our distinct flavour in the fashion industry is shaped by the province’s cultural heritage, natural beauty and creative spirit,” Free State upcoming designer Shirley Magqaza says. 

The burgeoning talent is showcasing her work at the 9th instalment of the prestigious annual fashion and lifestyle event, celebrating the creative spirit of both established and emerging designers from the province and across South Africa. 

Global the influence might be, but the beginnings are often humble and rooted in one’s immediate experience at home. It was no different for the brain behind SHIRQreates. 

“I have always loved clothes and that’s what brought me to my love for fashion design. I started by making clothes for my dolls then my mom would bring me clothes from where she was working and I’d style them,” Magqaza shares. 

The Epitome of Luxury Fashion, the collection Magqaza showcased at last year’s Free State Fashion Week, evoked the childlike playfulness many of us abandon as we grow up. The garments look as if they are  plucked from an unbridled, expressive mind and placed on life-size dolls. 

“I would describe myself as unique, stylish and elegant because that is what we cater for in my company.” 

It’s a company born out of courage after Magqaza left her job at Jumbo wholesaler to pursue her dreams of being a fashion designer.

Courage, ever one to reward those faithful to it, followed suit for the Motheo TVET College graduate as she showcased her work at South Africa Focus Week in Singapore. 

But success has not come with its difficulties and, for Magqaza, among these were access and resources. 

“My biggest challenge is not having my own space and machinery to do the work because sometimes you have to reach a certain target and it’s not easy.”

A resilient entrepreneurial spirit is needed to succeed in South Africa — especially in the Free State. 

With a 38% unemployment rate and a staggering 45.5% youth unemployment rate in the province last year, according to Statistics South Africa, there is an urgent need for innovation and inclusive interventions, particularly in high-impact sectors like the creative economy. 

This was issued from the top by FSFW founder Candy Smith at the inaugural event in 2016.

“When I started out, it was me as a professional fashion designer, who studied fashion and had my own challenges, and I wanted to assist aspiring fashion designers to have a platform to showcase their talents,” Smith reflects. 

Whereas global trade had a favourable effect on the fabrics of the region centuries ago, post-1994 the repercussions of globalisation have not been kind to the Free State. 

International trade agreements saw tariffs reduced from 100% to 40% in 2002, resulting in an open market for cheap imports and, ultimately, a decline in local manufacturing. 

The rise of counterfeit local products is a problem not front of mind for the public and generally poorly covered in the media. The textile and fashion industry, though filled with glitz and glam, is in dire need of grit and guile. 

Empowerment has never been as important for the industry as it is now — something Smith foresaw and proactively sought to remedy through the creation of the Free State Fashion Hub. 

One beneficiary of this institution has been alumnus and designer Rethabile Maxwell Blom. 

“The Free State Fashion Hub has been instrumental in my growth,” says the multi-disciplinary designer of clothing and shoes under his brand Blom Luxe. 

“It offered structure, mentorship and real-world exposure. Beyond technical skills, it helped me understand the business side of fashion and connected me with industry professionals who took the time to invest in my journey. It turned a dream into a viable career path. And they continue to support me.” 

Mentorship is a vital cog in the machine that is Free State Fashion Hub, especially as Smith herself benefitted from scholarships and mentors who guided her on her journey. 

Blom says mentorship has been a game-changer: “Having people who have walked the path guide me, offer feedback and sometimes challenge me, gave me the confidence to grow. 

“It’s not just about creative advice. It’s the mindset, the discipline and the bigger picture thinking that mentorship within FSFW instilled in me.”

That creative and intellectual tug-of-war is evident in his designs. There is an unapologetic boldness to Blom Luxe that is evident from the designer’s sketches to its shoes, showing no signs of fearing to stand out. 

But one thing about Free State designers is always present, darling: culture, culture, culture. 

“I’d describe myself as a culturally rooted, forward-thinking designer. My work sits at the intersection of heritage and innovation. 

“I’m very intentional about designing garments that are both wearable and expressive pieces that carry meaning but still speak to modern aesthetics. There’s always a story behind the work,” Blom says.

“I hope to see more support for local designers, not just from within the industry, but from our communities too. 

“I’d love to see the Free State become a hub for fashion innovation with platforms that invest in young talent and help retain creatives in the province. More visibility, infrastructure and unity.”

Smith is nearing a decade of pouring energy into the growth of the textile industry in the region in the hope of churning out more testimonies like those of Magqaza and Blom. 

Funding is an industry-wide challenge, and FSFW is no different, with Smith often tapping into her own coffers to get over the line. 

But her motivation does not waver. 

“Seeing them [fashion hub students] graduating after a year or two years gives me such satisfaction to say, ‘We have a better life here and changed lives forever.’ It’s so amazing and overwhelming.”

FSFW is inviting both emerging and established designers to apply to showcase their collections this year — as well as aspiring models to take the runway. 

The selected designers will present their work before a live audience, media and industry professionals.

Designers can apply by sending a short bio; a portfolio or lookbook and contact details to [email protected] with the subject line “FSFW 2025 Designer Application”. Applications close on Tuesday 12 August. 

Model castings are at 8am at Sapphire Hotel, 92 Charles Street, Bloemfontein, on 16 August. Applicants asked to arrive all in black with ZCards or full-length photos.

The Women’s Day Business and Fashion Fest, however, was a perfect appetiser for what is to come. 

“This year’s programme is one of the most meaningful we’ve ever produced. We are proud to be a platform that brings together some of the most impactful women in leadership, from fashion to music to media, and we’re just as passionate about opening up space for the next generation,” Smith concluded. 

Themed Glam with a Touch of Pink, event host Tunzi had one call to action for the people joining the festivities in a video shared on FSFW’s official social media page: “You are your ancestors’ wildest dreams. So, show up, take up space and shine unapologetically. I’m looking forward to spending the day with you!”

It’s the perfect rallying call for a series of events rooted in culture, heritage and uniqueness. 

Perhaps being a city kid isn’t all that bad. The FSFW community, as well as the Free State’s textile history, are evidence a global perspective can still have local relevance and resonance. Or maybe I’m just really good at self-soothing. You be the judge.