After a long and eventful day, couples – black and white – walk tiredly along the dusty, badly lit streets of Atteridgeville and disappear into the early evening smog from the township coal stoves. This is the second night of the ”encounter” organised by Koinonia, a Christian organisation preaching ”reconciliation and preparation for the new South Africa” through interactions between blacks and whites. Its intent is to break down man-made laws dividing South Africans. Furtive glances from children playing in the tiny roads – a sign of a need for facilities – are less curious than the night before, when about 200 ”delegates” from white Pretoria arrived in the township at 6pm.
Residents appear to have become used to the presence of whites and some are mixing freely, exchanging greetings and chatting to the guests as they pass. From others the reaction is downright indifferent as if to say: ”Well, what is all the fuss about? Aren’t these encounters long overdue?” As we leave the African Methodist Episcopal church in Sehlogo Street at 6pm, the black hosts take their guests home for supper. Most ”delegates” have weary expressions on their faces after their experiences in the township. ”Delegates” – most of whom are still apprehensive about walking the township streets at the night – appear desperate for the rest, but for their hosts it is time for fun.
After supper, hosts entertain their guests by taking them on a walk to let them get the feel of the township at night. My host takes me to a large house in Black Rock, another section of the township, and others arrive one after another as if the rendesvouz was prearranged. After 9pm there are 16 ”couples” in a lounge one guest joked was ”only big enough to accommodate four whites” comfortably. It is an ”average” house, spacious by township standards, with velvet drapes. Guests are treated to mellow sounds from a music centre as more ”couples” pour in. Conversation is light-hearted. Jokes about the late Patrick Mphephu, president of Venda, leave everyone in stitches.
Stoffel Bleeker, alias Toffee, sums up the visitors’ responses: ”I have never heard blacks make such intelligent jokes.” A few of the hosts take centre stage, dancing rhythmically as the beat gets up-tempo. Some enthusiastic guests join the fray singing to Brenda Fassie’s Too Long for Mama. No-one seems to bother even when they are terribly off-key. The table is kept dark with beer and assorted drinks, and one after another the hosts disappear until I am left in a sea of white skins. I can’t help feeling threatened by the ”wit gevaar” but a pleasant smell of meat explains what the hosts are doing outside. Discussions have now taken a serious turn as guests reflect on various topics: conditions in the township and sanctions. Food interrupts and large ladles of pap are served with braaied steak and wors.
Some guests are still nibbling at the pap long after a few of us have dismissed our plates. ”This is the first time I ever used my fingers to eat,” said a visitor to his neighbour, who replied cynically: ”Come on Tom, don’t you guys ever go to braais?” Dancing is in full swing as passers – by drop in. Everyone is clapping hands, accompanying the dancers. It is about lam and the number of visitors has dwindled considerably as they realise they still have to discuss their experiences and decide on action Back at church on Sunday morning, guests mostly talk about the conditions at the Saulsville male hostel, the old age home and, particularly, the squatters which visitor Dave Morgan said ”impressed me negatively. ”Having a roof two inches from your head with no privacy, you can appreciate why there is a breakdown in morals,” he said. The groups’ reflections were often emotional.
Visiting black American Reverend John Perkins, roared: ”Apartheid is a demon kicked out of heaven, you can’t defend it. If I were here I would be in the African National Congress,” when someone tried to explain the ”realities” in South Africa. His sentiments were echoed by 19-year-old Bleeker: ”I can’t believe the blacks are still patient. I would have joined the ANC.” ”Toffee” explained he was raised by a very conservative family. ”I was always made to believe that there are ‘savages’ in the townships. Now I feel like a true African and I have never felt happier after the two days in Atteridgeville.” Guest speaker South African Council of Churches’ Frank Chikane said only when people know one another’s world will they change their perceptions. ”If you experience what I experience, then you will understand me.”
Nancy Perkins said she was appalled by the conditions of squatters, who pay R35 for rent. ”There was this landlord who had a dozen squatters in his yard.” Her husband added the situation in South Africa was like that in Mississippi in the early 1960s. Another guest, Reuen Bruni, said of the lack of facilities: ”Pretoria Boys High has 10 tennis courts, three cricket and five rugby fields but there is not a single squash court in the whole of Atteridgeville. ”You can’t even start comparing the two different worlds. The hostels are ‘sick’. Two people are sharing a space – you can’t call it room. They sleep on hard bunks and there is only one cold water tap,” Bruni said.
Said Mimi Sayma: ”You need only look at the faces of the people in the hostels to understand their plight.” Detlev Tönsing criticised the Pretoria city council for spending about R4-million to decorate the entrance to the township with attractive lamps ”while the old age home is in dire need”. Regional organiser Alice Coetzee, said Koinonia was overwhelmed by the response, saying she was happy that ”perceptions have been changed”. Guests pledged to convince families and friends to join in.
*The national organiser of Koinnia, Ivor Jenkins, received threatening letters, signed by ”Wit Wolwe”, for organising the encounter. – Vincent Mashego
This article originally appeared in the Weekly Mail.