Alan Gignoux Incredible journeys
Vintage railroads left over from colonial times are becoming an increasingly scarce sight in Africa. There is, however, one railroad that continuously beats all the odds: the Xai Xai railroad. This remarkable line has survived civil wars, lack of spare parts and present-day free market changes taking place in now peaceful Mozambique.
Every Friday at 8am this antique locomotive leaves the station in Xai Xai to make the trip of 60km, returning on Sunday evening. Apart from being a form of transport and an economic lifeline, it is also a source of excitement for the young, and information from the outside world for the elders. The train, on leaving the station, looks like a black giant bellowing steam from its ears and squeaking warning sounds to pedestrians to stay away. Local children ignore the giant’s warnings and run behind, in front, and jump on and off as if the giant is their playground.
The train is loaded with home appliances, furniture and foodstuffs – unattainable in the bush towns that the train passes through. All orders must be made the previous week.
The train’s departure is quite miraculous. Preparations for the Friday journey start four days before, early on the Monday morning. The maintenance crew of seven people has to use African ingenuity to keep the 1920s Pullman locomotive on the rails. No spare parts exist and probably have not for the last 40 years. Manuals have been out of print longer than most of the workers have been alive. Maintenance is done by trial and error.
The crew that operates the train on Friday doubles during the week as maintenance crew. Hermangildo is the train guard but during the week he is a welder. “We all have to work together to make Mozambique work. We cannot depend on the rest of the world,” says Hermangildo. Camaraderie and pride keep the Xai Xai railroad alive.
The journey goes through splendid scenery, untouched bush interrupted by the occasional village. Tall weeds cover the narrow gauge track, making the train slip constantly. Dirt from the sidings is dug up and sprinkled on the rails to create traction for the giant to roll again. This gauge, because of its age, does not exist anywhere else in Africa. It is in appalling shape.
The monkey jack is well worked, constantly putting the train back on to the rails. Carriages come free of their holdings and have – in some way – to be attached to the rest of the train. A piece of wood will suffice for a pin, usually a piece of driftwood lying at the side of the tracks. Maintenance is not confined to the yard – it’s an ongoing endeavour. The driver, with pride, steers the train up hills and the assistant, black from the soot of coal dust, labours to shovel enough coal for the beast’s appetite.
In the evening rest comes for everybody involved, including the engine. A Pullman hotel is created in the middle of the bush. Music blares, people chat and lovers disappear into the bush. The air is still and hot and mosquitoes drone. Sleep is impossible.
The return journey is full of passengers returning to work in Xai Xai after spending a weekend with family or friends. The cargo containers are full of chopped wood needed by the townspeople.
The Xai Xai railroad has often been threatened with closure. Ideas for turning it into a tourist train have been proposed, but in typical Mozambican fashion, the response has been amanha tal vez (maybe tomorrow).
Realistically, the train is uneconomical. The line provides a service for such a small and insignificant part of Mozambique. Existing roads are being improved and new roads are being constructed.
It was a privilege to ride a railroad that will not be with us for very long and meet a crew that tirelessly keeps the railroad alive through all adversities – all for a mere 3 000 Metacais (about 75c).
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