An alternative dining experience in Bloemfontein food
Francois Fourie In a song that shares its name with the city, Valiant Swart referred to Bloemfontein as the gramadoelas, a word that roughly signifies a place far removed from civilisation. Bloemfontein has always had to bear the brunt of jokes in the more cosmopolitan cities in our country. There is no denying that the city is infested with boers, but stereotyping the denizens of Bloem as insular and uncultured reveals an ironic narrow-mindedness. Yet Bloemfontein is not likely to shed its reputation as the bastion of Afrikaner conservatism soon.
It is rumoured that Bloemfontein has the most restaurants per capita in the world. But even here, in the culinary sphere, the citys conservatism is manifest.
Regardless of the exquisite roses for which it is renowned, Bloemfontein could aptly have been baptised the City of Franchises. Name a restaurant or fast-food chain and the odds are that youll find a couple of its franchises scattered across the city and suburbs. Turning from the N1 and heading towards the city centre, one drives past four Spur steak ranches in less than four kilometres. Though the franchised restaurants in the city hit double figures, only a few fingers are needed to count the independent restaurants. These restaurants not only have to contend with the franchises but also with one another for a share of the market, so one is guaranteed fine dining when visiting restaurants such as Upstairs, New York, Schillacis and Acropolis. Although the quality of the food at these restaurants is not in question, none can be accused of exerting any appreciable pressure on the culinary envelope. Exotic dining in Bloemfontein generally means Italian, Greek or Chinese. There is a Mexican restaurant, but one would be hard pressed to find any quesadillas, fajitas or enchiladas here since the restaurant is Mexican in name only. Even more bizarre is a Chinese restaurant whose name, Cest si bon, deceivingly whets the appetite for French cuisine. Bloemfontein restaurants seem to have a fascination with the French language, though the spelling of the French words presents an enduring challenge. Choose between “rump a la creque”, “kingklip bonne femm” or “fillet au piovre” for a main course and follow it up with a delectable “creime brlle” for dessert. Two new restaurants recently dared to open their doors in the City of Franchises. Fishpaste is an engaging little restaurant specialising in Mediterranean “fusion” dishes that are amalgamations of Asian and European food cultures. That fact that three out of four dishes on the small but interesting menu are vegetarian is likely to present a significant challenge to the more conservative Free State palates weaned on red meat. Delightful dishes are served in an intimate atmosphere that restaurateur and self-trained chef Brand du Toit describes as “ambient rather than ostentatious”. Brand is also a self-trained artist and the dcor of Fishpaste reflects this passion. local artists are welcomed to exhibit their paintings in the restaurant and the courtyard has been set aside for aspiring sculptors. Peppadew offers diners a marvellous choice of Asian dishes. Chefs lek Narom and Pui Masim specialise in Thai cuisine, but Japanese and Vietnamese dishes also feature on the menu. The exquisitely prepared dishes are spicy and rich in coconut milk and peanut butter, ingredients unfamiliar to the cooking pots in this part of the country. Yet Peppadew has received unprecedented interest since its opening in August and is booked to capacity every weekend.
Though it would seem that the number of culinary dissidents in the City of Franchises is on the increase, a revolution in the restaurant industry is an improbable prospect. Support for the franchised restaurants is unlikely to wane in the face of the alternatives offered by restaurants such as Fishpaste and Peppadew. But at least there are a few new flavours in the gramadoelas.