Heat. That’s the first thing that hit me as I got off the wonderfully air-conditioned Nationwide plane at Livingstone International airport. And when I say hit, I mean along the lines of a left hook from Lennox Lewis.
The captain had told us it was a “pleasant” 42°C. It may well have been in the shade, but out on the smouldering tarmac it felt a good few degrees hotter as I made my way to the beckoning terminal building, waved on by a friendly welcoming committee dressed smartly in khaki and pith helmets.
The colonial age may have left Zambia’s border town bereft, but the spirit certainly lives on — David Livingstone was here, and he left more than his name behind him. You can feel it in the gentlemanly manners of the terminal staff as the doors are held open with a winning flash of pearly whites. Indeed, the whole stifling atmosphere is positively dripping with colonial grace and charm, in spite of the somewhat faded outer casing.
The warm (sic) welcome to this far-flung nook of Zambia was received with an air of expectation by the newly arrived. We were here to visit the newest additions to the Sun International stable of fine hotels, whose location just happens to make them one of the company’s biggest local and international drawcards — the Victoria Falls, wonder of the natural world, through which flows the mighty Zambezi on its journey to the Mozambican coast.
The locals called the falls “the smoke that thunders” and Livingstone certainly heard them long before he saw them. But when he finally laid eyes on the awe-inspiring sight of the Zambezi falling hundreds of metres into a gaping rock chasm, he named them for his queen. The fine colonial town that sprang up was, in turn, named after him.
The hotels — the Zambezi Sun and the aptly named Royal Livingstone — are perched alongside one another a few kilometres outside town on the edge of the river as it approaches its miraculous plunge into the spectacular gorge produced by millions of years of erosion.
Together the hotels are known as The Falls Resort and, in true Sun International style, the resort encompasses an entertainment centre complete with perfunctory casino, activity centre, restaurants and curio shops and an exclusive entrance to the Victoria Falls National Park, entry to which is free and unlimited for residents. Guests of one hotel have access to the facilities of the other, with a scenic riverside walk linking the two properties via a communal boma. A shuttle service of air-conditioned minibuses runs guests to and from the hotels and the entertainment centre.
The only thing that separates the hotels are their categories — the Royal Livingstone plays the super-duper luxurious “Palace” to the Zambezi Sun’s “Cabanas”. It’s a question of “money no object” versus “watch what you spend”, and the obvious physical attributes such as decor and furnishings differ, as do the prices. But underneath it all both hotels offer the same high standards and serve their different niche markets exceptionally well.
And there’s no beating the location. The falls serve as a natural border between Zambia and neighbouring Zimbabwe, with only the impressive road and rail bridges over the gorge linking the two. And the river runs through it, mighty and unstoppable, dominating the view from the hotel gardens along its northern banks. The mist that rises from the falls hangs like an errant cloud at one end of the resort, marking the spot where the world falls away.
The Royal Livingstone is beautiful. It’s not too big and, as a result, maintains its air of personal service perfectly, even if some of the service tends to be on “African time”. But with the daily temperature outside averaging 44°C, I wasn’t in a hurry.
The rooms are immaculate and look like something straight out of the pages of a designer magazine, with muted tones of taupe, cream and beige, plump cushions, day beds to die for, dark wood furniture and butler trays that I wish I could have gotten in my suitcase, along with several pieces of exquisite African art.
The bathroom was a model of Victorian opulence, with acres of marble, a double-volume walk-in shower and the deepest bath I’ve ever seen. I felt like I’d been transported to the set of Out of Africa and half expected dear Meryl Streep to come sweeping in, drawling, “I haad a farm in Aafricaaaa…” Only she wouldn’t have had satellite TV, air-conditioning and a phone.
Back in the real world my fantasies were understandable, given the understated elegance of my surroundings. This extended to the tasteful Roman-ended pool and its plush cast-iron loungers, lined up military fashion, each with soft, white towelling cushion covers and even softer white bath sheets for drying off one’s cozzie. Sustenance was provided by a squad of ever-so-willing waiters, who hardly sat still, with constant orders of liquid refreshment coming from under the shade of the poolside umbrellas.
Be warned. Drinking in Zambia can seriously damage your wallet. For a start there’s the ubiquitous United States dollar to contend with, and then there’s Zambia’s tax on all things alcoholic. A local brewskie, called Mosi after the Mosi a Tunya (smoke that thunders), cost a whopping $6 a bottle at the hotel. The same bottle of beer in a local bar in Livingstone cost the same outrageous price, as we found out on an informal exploration of the town.
Eating at the Royal Livingstone is a gastronomic affair, with every whim catered for at breakfast and dinner, both of which are taken on a terrace overlooking the river.
At this point I’d better mention mosquitoes. I did not take anti-malarials as I did not have time (it was a last-minute trip) but the hotels provide mozi repellant in the form of Doom-type mats and burners in the room and citronella soap. Pack your Peaceful Sleep or Tabbard and make sure you smother yourself at dusk each day. Malaria is a real problem, and it’s always better to be safe than sorry.
Back to the action, and downstream to the Zambezi Sun, where things were altogether more low-key. As vibrant as the Royal Livingstone is subtle, the atmosphere is ethnic in contrast to the Victoriana at the Royal Livingstone, with rich terracottas and warm earth colours leaping out from the stucco and timber hallways. Furnishings are upmarket and jazzy, with bright colours and weaves on every cushion, curtain and rug.
The rooms are an equally colourful affair, with all the usual fixtures and fittings and doors opening out on to private stoeps or balconies. The accent is on community, with the centre of attention and activity being the pool area with its bridge leading to the pool bar and restaurant offering light lunches and snacks.
Dinner at the Zambezi Sun is a buffet, with a range of tempting dishes to suit all palates; from salads and soups to curries, stews, roasts and traditional dishes to puff pastry and ice cream.
But perhaps the pièce de résistance in both hotels is the fabulous boma. Here dinner is served as a huge bush braai, giving the word buffet a whole new meaning, complete with sandy floor, sleeperwood tables and benches, oil lamps and ethnic dinnerware. And to top it all there was a floor show of traditional storytelling, dancing and music.
But sometimes entertainment of a different kind distracts guests from the gyrations of the lissome performers. Enter a herd of elephants — Mother Nature’s answer to dinner and a show.
At night these marvellous animals become truly magical and strangely ethereal, appearing apparition-like at the electric wire fence, which is all that separates the hotel grounds from darkest Africa.
After half an hour of performing to a rapt boma crowd, the ellies moved off, and the diners returned to their dinners. All except me, my nearest and dearest and a resolute security guard, who followed my lead as I grabbed an oil lamp outside the boma and made off, Livingstone-like, down the rough path next to the fence in search of the herd.
I found them 50m or so upstream, literally 3m from the fence as they grazed, with only a few strands of wire between us.
So began the most amazing 90 minutes as the three of us walked in the moonlight with the herd while they grazed for the entire length of the Falls Resort, which is around 2km of riverbank. It still gives me goosebumps to think about it, and I can only describe it as an almost holy experience that summed up nicely the beauty of the place and the magic that is Victoria Falls.
The low down
South Africans wanting to visit the Falls Resort can take advantage of Sun International Dreams’s special packages to the Zambezi Sun and Royal Livingstone.
The price of R2 999 a person sharing will get you two nights at the Zambezi Sun on a bed and breakfast basis, return economy flights from Johannesburg International airport to Livingstone on Nationwide, airport-hotel transfers and unlimited access to the falls themselves. Not included in the price are airport and departure taxes.
The Zambezi Sun is categorised as three-star, but in fact is worth far more. It does not have room service but out-of-hours food can be had at a Squire’s Loft on site.
The five-star Royal Livingstone is offering midweek two-night breaks for R4 400 a person, sharing, bed and breakfast. This price includes return economy flights on Nationwide from Johannesburg to Livingstone, airport-hotel transfers and unlimited access to the falls. Airport and departure taxes are not included in the price, which increases to R4 900 a person, sharing, over weekends.
Nationwide also offers flights to Livingstone from the Pilanesberg airport. For more information check out www.flynationwide.co.za or call (011) 788 1245. For more information on the Falls Resort and rates at the Zambezi Sun and Royal Livingstone, contact Sun International Dreams at (011) 217 5555.
Activities for Africa
There is a range of activities offered to guests of the Falls Resort, but none is cheap.
Top of the list is a cruise on the African Queen up the Zambezi. The boat is marvellous — it’s a restored steamer, decked out in Victorian regalia with brass fittings. There’s an upstairs and a downstairs, with full bar service and snacks or a meal to boot. Comfy cane armchairs offer the perfect way to watch the river run by, with the added bonus of game and bird watching. The service is excellent, the food scrummy and the experience worth it. Three cruises are offered — breakfast, lunch and sunset, for $44 a person.
Game drives in the Mosi a Tunya National Park are offered in the morning and afternoon, at a cost of $38 each. The drives last about three hours.
A day-trip to nearby Chobe in neighbouring Botswana will set you back $160 a person and an historic tour of Livingstone $29 each.
All of the above are the 2003 rates.
In addition, there’s white water rafting, microlight and helicopter flips over the falls, and bungee jumping. For up-to-date prices of these and other activities not mentioned here, contact Sun International Dreams at (011) 217 5555.