A long line of taxis is a visitor’s first welcome to Soweto as you pass Chris Hani Baragwanath hospital. A seemingly endless suburb lies ahead creating an impression of a cultural wasteland. But that impression could not be further from the truth.
The township boasts a rich cultural and political history that goes back to the very roots of South Africa’s democracy. It was the setting of the Soweto riots of 1976, which historians credit as the beginning of the end of the apartheid regime.
It was, and in some cases still is, home to many famous struggle heroes, including Nelson Mandela.
Soweto offers a world of contrast to tourists who wander its well trodden streets. For many it presents the authentic Africa they were hoping to find, but missed in the cosmopolitan shopping malls and suburbs of Johannesburg. For others it is a spiritual place where they try to discover a lost link with their ancestry. But most tourists are just plain curious to see the famous township that is so integral to South Africa’s history.
The township has an underlying energy and promise, but is also shambolic and host to many well-meaning projects that never reached their potential.
Some key historical sites unfortunately lack the infrastructure they deserve. Mandela’s old house in the famous Vilakazi Street, for one, holds much unrealised potential.
The house, now turned museum, has huge historical significance. Bullet holes are still clearly visible in the paintwork where security forces shot at the house. It was also the home that Mandela shared with his ex-wife Winnie Madikizela-Mandela.
Though the humble house is a true reflection of the difficult times the couple lived through it still deserves better upkeep. Visitors have to guess the origin of the various memorabilia and without a guide you are lost. This haphazard feel extends to the torn South African flag fluttering in the wind outside.
Yet thousands of international tourists still flock to see the house and for this reason alone the government should invest more money in it.
Vilakazi Street also boasts the home of Archbishop Desmond Tutu. His house is not open to the public, but a few hopefuls still stretch their necks to try and catch a peek of the famous humanitarian as they stroll to the neighbouring shebeen.
Shebeens are part of the cultural experience of Soweto and a township lunch or dinner is an absolute must. The cuisine on offer is typical of what a normal South African family would eat — pap, stew, salad and even chops are on the menu. Even as an Afrikaner I found I was familiar with most of the dishes.
The crowded Wandi’s is Soweto’s most famous shebeen and a popular stop on most tour guides’ itineraries. But other gems, of a quality that surpass Wandi’s, lie hidden in Pimville and Orlando West.
One of the must sees on a visit to Soweto is Hector Peterson Square and its neighbouring museum that celebrate the Soweto riots. Unfortunately not many South Africans visit this excellent museum. On an earlier visit my friend, who lives in Soweto, was allowed free entrance because she is local but I had to pay because the museum staff thought I was a foreigner.
The museum uses historical TV clips to illustrate the story of the riots, along with vivid war stories told by people involved in the struggle. In one clip a policeman tells of how his fear caused him to panic, while in another rioters talk about how they defied the government by burning down buildings. There are also depictions of life in the “whites only” suburbs at the time and of how ignorant white people were about the country’s troubles.
Outside the museum vendors tout their handmade wares as well as freedom T-shirts, which are especially popular with African-American tourists, one vendor confided, but German tourists also love them.
For me, the new Thokoza Park near Klipriver presents an authentic piece of Soweto. This is where ordinary residents picnic and enjoy the first days of spring oblivious to the touristy shebeens and famous street names.
Even the little park next to Madikizela-Mandela’s house (she built it specifically for people to enjoy) presents a glimpse of genuine township life with children making small gardens and playing on benches where old men nap.
But for a true feel of township life drive slowly around the neighbourhoods and observe the numerous houses, from the humblest shack in Zola to a million rand mansion in Diepkloof.
If you feel that a day is too little time to experience the true charm of Soweto there are several guest houses that are more than willing to put you up for the night. Many tourists prefer the cultural experience they find in Soweto to a hotel in Sandton.
The saddest aspect of Soweto’s booming tourism industry is that so few of its visitors are local. As a South African I found it enriching to delve into some of the cultural treasures of our past and to discover parts of our history that should never be forgotten.