Fabulous! Luxurious! Sumptuous! Another wonderful private game lodge! But wait a moment, before my critics have a fit and Top Billing offers me a job … I am going to answer a question before I launch into reviewing AmaKhosi Lodge in northern KwaZulu-Natal.
It’s a question I’m often asked and arises out of the perception that lodges are primarily aimed at the overseas market. “Is it worth the price?” This is a tough one because what’s expensive to some is reasonable to others. Yes, some lodges can be pricey but what people are prepared to spend on their holiday is relative. Isn’t it?
Expense-wise AmaKhosi Lodge falls somewhere in the middle of the range. But rather than concentrating on the price, I’m going to look at the value for money.
It’s not the easiest of places to get to. The lodge has its own airstrip but charter flights are strictly for the rich and famous. Which leaves either a scheduled flight to Richard’s Bay and a three-hour road trip up the North Coast to Pongola, followed by a half-hour drive into the bush; or a five-hour road trip from Jo’burg via Witbank, Hendrina, Ermelo and Piet Retief.
Pongola is a strange town. As the largest major settlement within a few hundred square kilometres it has a captive market, but seems to be doing little for it. There’s one of everything — a bank, a supermarket, a petrol station, a KFC, even an airstrip that no one uses. But life passes it by. As does most of the traffic, bound for somewhere more interesting.
We were no exception, turning off mid-town on to the Nongoma road for a date with the Zululand bush and the river that runs through it.
AmaKhosi Lodge is perched on the banks of the Mkuze river in the remote 10 000ha Amazulu private game reserve. It’s a bumpy half-hour drive from Pongola but well worth the trip.
Arriving late at night after a marathon journey from Richard’s Bay we gulped down a welcome drink, said polite hellos to hosts Alwyn and Sonja Wentzel and were ushered to our home for two nights — six huge river suites, which, as their name implies, are built overlooking the river.
The suites and their viewing decks have been erected in an interesting diamond shape at an angle to the river. Inside there’s a large double bedroom with a king-sized bed, an equally large lounge with double sleeper-couch and cane armchairs, a separate toilet, walk-in shower and enormous bathroom with a huge oval bath built for two. The deck is furnished with comfortable wooden chairs with plump cushions and a table.
All of this is under thatch, with river-facing walls replaced by huge expanses of glass. Curtains have been ditched in favour of bamboo and reed blinds, that, while wonderfully ethnic, are not very practical, doing little to block out the light. Or the heat.
The suites are beautifully furnished though, and the only gripe is the lack of hanging and packing space for clothes.
After a quick shower it was off to the main lodge for dinner. The communal areas occupy a space in the middle of the row of suites and the dining area is elevated over the river to maximise the views up- and downstream. An electric fence keeps wild things at bay and, as this is a Big Five reserve, you are escorted to and from your suite after dark by an armed ranger.
The dining area is versatile and can be transferred inside in the case of bad or cold weather. We had neither — just blistering heat and the cloying humidity so typical of northern KwaZulu-Natal in high summer.
Meals are not for the shy or figure-conscious, and here value for money comes into play. Like most lodges of its ilk, the accommodation rate at AmaKhosi includes all meals, soft and hot drinks and nibbles of all description. And the food is superb.
Be it breakfast, brunch, high tea or dinner, there’s so much food it’s impossible to try everything.
While I realise that there’s only so much one person can eat and drink, if you add it up and translate the value into what it would cost at a top Johannesburg restaurant, you begin to see why lodges like AmaKhosi charge the prices they do. The difference is that here you pay once, and don’t have to take your wallet out again.
The game viewing also offers value for money. Early morning and late- afternoon-cum-evening game drives are part of the programme, and bush walks can be arranged at no additional cost. Morning drives are up to four hours long and include tea, coffee and snacks, and evening drives feature sundowners and munchies such as biltong, chips, sosaties and fresh fruit.
Again, if you translate this into what you’d pay to go on an organised game drive into, say, the Kruger National Park, with a personal ranger and tracker, you’ll realise what you’re getting for your money. As a guideline, a four-hour game drive in Kruger with a fairly average private safari company would cost R400 a person, excluding refreshments.
Life at AmaKhosi revolves around game drives, but if you prefer a laze by the pool, that’s fine too. However, you would miss out on the heart of the place, which is the land. Rolling hills and mountains, wetlands and savannah — the Amazulu reserve has it all. Besides the Big Five, there are 15 species of antelope and more than 400 bird species.
Game drives take up a huge chunk of the day. Doing both the morning and the afternoon drives can be exhausting, especially in summer when the wake-up call is at 4.30am.
But there’s no pressure on guests to take part. It’s entirely optional and for those with young children it is impractical to expect them to sit still on an open vehicle for such a long time. So for parents who want the full bush experience, babysitting services are available at R20 an hour.
AmaKhosi Lodge (which means “the place of kings”) is also involved in development programmes with local communities. Woven baskets, tribal artefacts and textiles are found throughout the lodge and the friendly staff are traditionally dressed.
Their uniforms were hand-woven by a local sewing group, Kusolunga, and were commissioned by the Wentzels. Sonja Wentzel was so impressed with the workmanship that she has given Kusolunga more work. The community project has expanded to include screen printing and the design of corporate logos.
Under the Wentzels’ mentorship, staff members have built a traditional boma at the lodge, where outside functions and meals are held. To entertain guests, members of local communities have formed a dance group. The dancers, mostly children and teens, use the money received for their services to help pay their school fees.
I left AmaKhosi Lodge after two nights and two hectic days wishing I’d had longer to explore and relax and enjoy the place. Three nights would be ideal, I suppose, given the time it takes to get there, and any longer purely subject to the depth of your wallet.
It’s not cheap, but as I’ve said, I can’t make a call on affordability. I’ve visited places far more expensive that were full of South Africans. It all boils down to what you are prepared to spend and whether you get what you pay for. Based on my experience, at AmaKhosi Lodge you do. In ample amounts.
Sharon van Wyk was hosted with other media representatives by AmaKhosi Lodge
The lowdown
To get to AmaKhosi Lodge by road from Johannesburg, take the N12 to Witbank or the N1 to Pretoria, transferring to the N4 east. At Middelburg take the N11 to Hendrina and Ermelo and the N2 from Ermelo to Pongola. At Pongola turn right on to the R66 to Nongoma. After about 22km, turn right on to the R69 to Vryheid. Travel about 2km. On the left you will find the turning to AmaKhosi Lodge. From here the lodge is well signposted.
Accommodation rates are from R1 995 a person a night, sharing, in low season to R2 450 a person a night, sharing, in mid-season and R2 698 a person a night, sharing, in high season. Children aged five and under can be accommodated at no extra charge. For children from six to 12 years of age the charge is 50% of the adult rate, provided they share a suite with their parents. For 13 years and older it’s the full adult rate.
For more information or to make a reservation contact AmaKhosi Lodge on Tel: (034) 414 1157.
Getaway
In our latest Great Escape competiton we are offering a prize of a three-night stay at AmaKhosi Lodge for two people sharing on a self-drive basis.
The prize includes accommodation at AmaKhosi Lodge in a luxurious river suite; meals (brunch, high tea and dinner); soft drinks; tea and coffee; and morning and afternoon game activities.
All you have to do is answer the following question: How big is the Amazulu private game reserve? E-mail your answer and contact details to [email protected] send your entry by snail mail to AmaKhosi Lodge Competition, Mail & Guardian Friday Escape, PO Box 91667, Auckland Park 2006. The closing date for entries is March 12.