/ 16 March 2004

A taste of Thai

I fell in love with Thailand the moment I stepped off the plane in Bangkok. The country greeted us with a blast of humid air and mixture of smells I had never whiffed before. The delightful stench was the soul of Thailand, embedded in its tasty, passion-enriched cuisine and its sociable people.

Falling asleep in a comfortable train, snorkelling among a thousand fish, bargaining in a market and comparing shopping notes on the beach all make a trip to this tropical paradise an opportunity never to forget.

Our two weeks in the land of smiles were a mixture of fun, food and fabulous times. Every moment is a picture opportunity and, just when you think you have seen it all, the country will surprise you in a whole new way.

If affordability is a consideration for your next overseas trip, Thailand wins hands down. A three-course meal for two costs as little as R30 and for R15 a taxi is yours for the day. Back in South Africa I nearly had a heart attack doing shopping again.

We enjoyed the shopping pleasures of Thailand so much we had to buy another bag to take back all our goodies, which included clothing, books, home decor and yet more clothes.

Bangkok is a shopping paradise, but if you make the effort of going south to the beautiful islands you will be rewarded endlessly. Instead of heading down to the famous resort town of Phuket, we visited sites off the beaten path, though they are not as remote as you would think.

Krabi with its huge limestone cliffs rising out of the water makes a magnificent site and it is fast becoming the climbing capital of the world. The beaches, though busy, are not yet spoiled and great walks that remind you of the remoteness of the area are begging to be explored.

Kho Samui, once a backpacker’s paradise, is turning into the next Phuket, but its magnificent beaches and touristy atmosphere made it one of my favourite stopovers on our trip. If you are looking for a good old-fashioned holiday, look no further than Samui.

Affordable, beautiful and bubbling with atmosphere, Samui enchants you the moment you arrive at its unique tropical airport. Forget the minimalist cold lines of today’s modern airports. The open-air, ecological airport will have you dancing while you collect your baggage alongside a palm tree.

Instead of simply exploring beaches, we also visited Thailand’s wilderness. Just a few kilometres from Phuket, Khao Sok National Park beckons with impressive limestone cliffs and great hiking. We overnighted on a floating village in the middle of a dam. It was one of the most awe-inspiring places I have ever visited. The facilities may have been rustic and basic, and you had to walk a mile to the toilets, but it was better than any five-star hotel.

Any beach lover has to make his or her pilgrimage to the cathedral of beaches, Maya beach on the Phi Phi Islands. Though Leonardo DiCaprio and friends almost ruined the beach, it still remains breathtakingly beautiful. But the movie has drawn thousands of others just like me, determined to experience the beauty of The Beach, so don’t expect to have this little paradise to yourself.

We used the local transport extensively. Ferries are affordable and trains are great value for money. I had last slept on a train when I was seven years old. Thus the overnight train to Bangkok was a wonderful treat. We travelled second class, but the service was outstanding. When it is time to put on your pyjamas a steward comes along to make your bed with the crispest of white linen.

For many tourists Thailand and Bangkok symbolise a world of sin, where money can buy any sort of pleasure imaginable. My pleasures in Bangkok included shopping, shopping and more shopping.

The bargains are incredible and the piracy shocking. The streets are small and packed with every fake good you can imagine. If you are looking for an authentic CD, good luck. In between, street food vendors lure you to their brand of Thai food with garlic and chilli mixes.

Chatuchak market stands as a monument to all shopaholics and bargain hunters. It comprises nearly five football fields of small stalls displaying the world’s cheapest wares. Beware, you will be bankrupt after a visit to this weekend market and left struggling to carry all that you have bought. Most men hate the place; most women think it is heaven on Earth.

Thai cuisine is one of the highlights of any trip to Thailand. I decided to do a Thai cooking course, so that my treats from the Thais could include more than a fake Gucci watch. For about R200 I learned the secrets of making delicious sweet and sour Thai chicken and the famous Thailand south green curry. Though I was sceptical about finding the ingredients in South Africa, even the good old Hyperama near our neighbourhood is now stocking the flavours of Thailand.

If you desire the more sinister pleasures Thailand is famous for, you will find it in the nightlife and on the laps of dozens of fat, bold Europeans living it large with their Thai girlfriends.

Of course we visited the notorious Pat Pong, but the few fake Rolexes, and the occasional “You wanna see dirty movie, mister?” did not leave us impressed with the so-called Thai Sodom and Gomorrah. We left a little disappointed. After hearing the stories of prostitutes stealing your husband off your arm, the whole experience seemed a little mundane.

Right through Thailand we were left gaping at the low prices of accommodation. Apart from the plane ticket, you will have a much a cheaper holiday in Thailand than in South Africa. If you have bonus air mileage, it will be a good idea to head for Thailand.

The friendliness of the Thais will astound you. Though you will find some anti-farang (foreigner) feelings, most of the Thais will go out of their way to accommodate you. The country is geared towards tourism and there is nothing that is not possible.

If I had to lay my finger on my best experience in Thailand, it would not be possible. All I know is that all my other overseas experiences paled in compari-son with the fun I had in Thailand.

The lowdown

Four airlines fly to Bangkok from South Africa. South African Airways flies to Hong Kong with connecting flights to Bangkok; Emirates flies via Dubai; Singapore Airlines flies via Singapore; and Malaysian Airlines flies via Kuala Lumpur.

Most South African travel agents offer a range of packages to Thailand, taking in Bangkok and Phuket with local tour operators such as Thompsons and Rennies. These packages include flights and accommodation on usually a bed-and- breakfast basis.