In preparation for the Olympics the Greek capital of Athens has been receiving a bit of a facelift. Here are the highlights that make for a perfect day of sightseeing:
Breakfast
Pick up a street koulouria (sesame-seeded bread rings sold at stalls), or a savoury filo pie, as the locals do.
If you have time and feel up to the scrutiny, head to Kolonaki, find an outdoor table and order a frappé, a foam-topped iced Nescafé, tall enough to linger over during the obligatory people-watching ritual (try Exarchia if you are in a mellower mood).
Sightseeing
This is dominated by the antiquities and cultural museums, supplemented by street-wandering, shopping and frequent, relaxed refreshment breaks.
A joint ticket allows you to spread your visits to the major ancient sites over a week, a good idea should you wish to avoid overload (and too much sun). Aim to get to the Acropolis as soon as it opens (8am in summer) to beat the crowds and the harsh, midday light.
Lunch
The foot of the Acropolis is ringed with restaurants, some of which have joined the tourist seam of red-checked tablecloths and set meals, but many come recommended for both traditional and creative Greek food, with lovely shaded terraces.
There’s no shame to eating in a taverna (or mezedopolion, serving lots of smaller dishes accompanied by ouzo) — their fresh, local ingredients, wine from the barrel and community role belie their package-holiday reputation — as long as you can find a good one.
Look for Greek diners, eschew the shills calling you in and take up any invitations to look inside the kitchen.
Afternoon
You’ll likely be up late — the Greeks seldom dine before 10pm — so an afternoon siesta is a good idea.
Alternatively, you can take an air-conditioned wander around one of the heavy-hitting classical museums — the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art, the Benaki or, from next month, the newly renovated National Archaeological museum.
Aside from classical culture, take in one of the Gazi area’s modern multi-arts spaces.
Then head for the string of both private and public beaches, which run for a couple of kilometres south of the city. Or take a dip at the Hilton hotel’s chic new pool.
Evening
The quintessential Athenian evening’s entertainment is going to watch a play or a concert in one of the outdoor auditoria, the ancient Oden of Herodes Atticus or the modern Lycabettus Theatre.
Both are venues for events in the Athens Festival between May and September (visit www.hellenicfestival.gr), comprising dance, theatre, music and ancient Greek drama. The latter is a memorable experience despite the language barrier (the occasional performance is in English).
If nothing is scheduled, go and see a film (in the original language) at one of the many outdoor cinemas, a hugely atmospheric experience — especially at Cine Paris, where the Acropolis in the background competes with the screen for your attention.
Ruth Jarvis is editor of the Time Out Guide to Athens. For more information on Athens and what tourists to Greece should expect in the run-up to the Olympics, contact the Greek Tourism Office on Tel: (011) 327 1395, e-mail: [email protected] or visit www.gto.co.za