Years ago, the comedian Alexei Sayle used to entertain his audience with wondrous tales about holidays in Albania. Then it seemed an almost exotically remote place, isolated from the world by the communist government of Enver Hoxha, living in a parallel universe far removed from the West, a land where religion, make-up and long hair were banned.
Then came the end of the cold war. The tight borders were thrown open in 1992, and suddenly it became possible for anyone to visit. But the end of communism brought with it wide-scale corruption and crime, and the country soon acquired a reputation for lawlessness and unreliability.
Now, however, Club Med is hoping to start operating at Kakome Bay on the southern Riviera of Albania — a move meeting fierce resistance at the moment from locals who claim the land proposed for the development is theirs — and other travel companies are eyeing the same area with interest.
Tourism is now seen as the possible national saviour, although currently it accounts for less than 10% of the national income. The potential, in a country that offers warm Ionian seas, clean beaches, mighty mountains, terrific fresh fish and seafood, cheap hotels and a friendly population is clear.
Sarande, the gateway to the coastline, is full of construction sites as hopeful local speculators throw up hotels in anticipation of a boom. So the advice for anyone who has harboured any curiosity about Albania has to be: go now before it becomes like everywhere else.
The Albanian Riviera is best reached — as a short add-on — by travellers who find themselves on the Greek island of Corfu, itself easily accessible from Igoumenitsa in northern Greece and Brindisi in southern Italy. From there, two ferries a day travel across to Sarande for around â,¬15 each way. Best to check the night before you depart as to when the ferry will be leaving because times vary.
Many day trippers make the trip over to visit Butrint, a short journey to the south of Sarande, to see the spectacular collection of Roman, Greek, Byzantine and Venetian ruins, which have benefitted recently from the care of the British-based Butrint Foundation.
It is now a world heritage site. But it would be a waste to visit Albania without staying for longer than a day. The ferry ride itself is spectacular enough, though, taking you in toward the snow-capped mountains that tower above Sarande. Hotels vary from very basic to fairly luxurious.
In Sarande, people stroll sociably along the promenade in the evening and there is a world of Eurodiscos that attract mainly Albanian tourists in the summer. You can also try the local firewater, raki, which everyone seems to make in their kitchens.
For dinner, visit one of the many seafront restaurants in Sarande that offer fresh fish and Albanian wine, which is fine. Alternatively, just outside the town is Likusri, a converted ruin that is now a restaurant with one of the finest of views.
The lowdown
Albania is best reached from the Ionian Islands that lie between northern Greece and southern Italy, or from the southern Italian port city of Brindisi.
South Africans need Schengen visas for Greece and Italy.
From Corfu, there are two ferries a day that go to Sarande at a cost of about â,¬15 each way.
In Sarande, the Porto Eda Hotel (+852 3363, www.portoeda.com) has doubles from â,¬30, B&B.