You don’t have to hop on a plane to experience exotic offerings. Matthew Krouse, Niren Tolsi and Shani Raviv go in search of slices of life from faraway places.
WOT’S WHAT
The Abyssinian Restaurant
3rd Floor, 539 West Street, Durban
Walking up the three flights of stairs to The Abyssinian is a bit like wandering on to the set of the film Seven, only the light bills have been paid. Situated in a hostel/hotel catering mainly for Ethiopians and Eritreans, The Abyssinian serves honest, cheap, good food (a bill for four people came to R42) and buzzes with mainly Ethiopian men, who are usually around the pool table. The balcony overlooking the Russell Street cemetery provides one of the best dining views in Durban. Mealtimes are a communal ritual and the food comes on large trays, layered with njera (soft bread) and whatever you choose off the menu: beyaynetu (a selection of vegetable dishes – lentils, curried potato, sambals, et cetera), tibs (beef strips fried with onion, chilli and a red pepper spice, bee bere) and doro wot (chicken cooked with eggs). One sticky point: the menu is in Amharic only, so take an Ethiopian or Eritrean friend along.
ALL-AFRICAN KITCHEN
Addis in Cape
41 Church Street, Cape Town. Tel: (021) 424 5722. Web: www.addisincape.co.za
Taste honey wine and freshly ground roasted buna (coffee) poured from hand-made clay jugs and served with frankincense and a basket of popcorn. Owner Senait Mekonnen from Addis says this is the way it is done in her country. This three-storey restaurant offers an authentic Ethiopian ambiance where you sit on damot (low, wooden, engraved chairs) and eat at mesobs (woven reed tabletops). Popular meals include doro wot (chicken) and shiro wot (vegetarian) prepared with imported spices. Mekonnen also loves to tell the history of coffee. The kitchen is open Monday to Saturday from 12pm to 2.30pm and from 6.30pm to 11pm.
THE MEZE TRAIN
A Portas Importers & Distributors
The Galleria, Bierman Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg. Tel: (011) 447 4683/4
An all-purpose Mediterranean deli with a distinctly Greek flavour, which is 111 years old and has been the mainstay of three generations of one family. George Lagoudis’s uncle arrived in the country from Greece in the late years of the 19th century and set up shop in Johannesburg city. Today, the business is the anchor tenant of this sleepy Rosebank nook. Here you’ll find genuine Calamata olives and others in huge barrels of brine, sun-dried black olives, vine leaves, salted capers sold by weight, Turkish coffee, imported oregano and sage, tahina, halva and a full range of Marklin toy trains from Germany. The proprietor has combined his love of food with this private hobby.
HAILE FASHIONABLE
Art of Ethiopia
Flea Market World, Marcia Street, Bruma Lake, Johannesburg. Tel: 083 437 1579
Ever wondered where local Rastafarians buy those beautiful white kaftans and scarves? Art of Ethiopia at Bruma is mostly a clothing boutique, but it also sells a range of Haile Selassie-worshipping goods and authentic religious artifacts and jewellery – at a price.
YEBO COMRADE
Babushka
58 Church Street, Cape Town. Tel: 084 407 8536
Babushka, which means ”grandma” in Russian, located off the Church Street market, is like a mini-museum selling authentic Russian collectÂables. Their wares include Matreshka dolls, hand-painted jewellery from Rostov, religious icons, amber from the Baltic sea, crystal glass and statues of Lenin. They also sell DVDs from directors such as Tarkovsky, camouflage uniforms and T-shirts from Moscow brandishing CCCP and prints of Stalin’s mug. People rush in looking for mink hats and striped shirts and others stay long to discuss Soviet history.
THAI ME DOWN
Beautiful Boxer
Out in Africa Gay and Lesbian Film Festival 2007. Jo’burg: March 2 to March 18 2007. Cape Town: March 16 to April 1 2007. Tel: (021) 461 4027. Web: www.oia.co.za
Experience the choreographic flights of traditional Thai boxing in Ekachai Uekrongtham’s high-budget film Beautiful Boxer. This is the story of Thailand’s transvestite boxer Nong Toom, who began life in poverty and graduated to becoming a child monk before training in the fine art of kickboxing. Frustrated with his masculine role, he took to performing in the ring in make-up and feminine garb and became a national sensation. He went on to fight female wrestlers in Tokyo before having a successful sex change in the Nineties. Today, Nong Toom is a professional model. The role is played with a mournful sensitivity by Thailand’s professional kickboxing boy wonder Asanee Suwan. Catch this startling epic at next year’s gay and lesbian film festival.
AMERICAN GRAFFITI
The Bin
105 Harrington Street, Cape Town. Tel: (021) 465 8314. Web: www.thebin.co.za
This gallery-cum-shop started off as a party idea and evolved into a barrier-breaking spot that supports street art, alternative design and graffiti culture. More than just a shop with art, they launch concept shows and try to uplift art movements. Los Angeles’s Logan Hicks, America’s most recognised stencil artist, is currently exhibiting cityscapes that have won him world acclaim in the urban art movement. The Bin also sells books, posters and limited edition sneakers made by street artists. Catch the work of Logan Hicks until January 15.
SHWARMA RAMA
Cairo Cuisine
5 Shortmarket Street, Cape Town. Tel: (021) 424 6088 or 084 589 2276
Mostafa, who goes by the title The Most Famous Chef of Shwarma, also sells falafels and Egypt’s signature lentil dish, kushary. Each falafel ball is made with fool (Egyptian beans) instead of chickpeas and is fried while you wait before being loaded, with humus and Alexandria salad, into a warm pita. He claims it is the original Egyptian recipe and loves to tell you the history of falafels while you eat. Usually open seven days a week from 8am to midnight, Mostafa will be trading on Adderley Street at night in season.
UNDERCOVER CUISINE
The Cake and Satay House
Willowvale Road, Glenwood, Durban (look for the sign on a wall just before the Willowvale Hotel). Tel: 082 716 3793
The Cake and Satay House is a quirky, chintzy little place: ”There’s no number, just the sign outside,” says proprietor Mr Nuno, of the 22-seater restaurant’s address. Essentially the front of a house, the food is freshly prepared (occasionally to the cacophony of slammed pots and pans) and includes Indonesian, Chinese and Thai staples ranging from nasi goreng and superbly marinated satays to crab curry (recommended). Warning: you will be regaled by Indo-synth-pop covers of Rock Around the Clock and tortured Chinese lute music. There is a good selection of cakes and trading hours are Monday to Saturday from 4pm to 10pm. Booking is essential.
BRAZIL NUTZ
Casa de Capoeira
Jan van Riebeeck Primary School, Kloof Street, Tamboerskloof, Cape Town. Tel: 073 517 3561 or 072 425 9101. Web: www.capoeirasa.co.za
The second-biggest sport in Brazil, next to football, is capoeira. This martial art dance originated in the 17th century when African slaves, who were shipped to Brazil, practised it under the guise of a game. Capoeirem (dancers) form a batteria (circle) around musicians playing berimbaus (bow-like instruments), pandeiros (tambourines) and atabaques (drums). Tyrel and Johan, who have also created outreach programmes in disadvantaged communities, are sure it will teach you not only Brazilian culture but also social awareness. Classes are on Tuesdays and Fridays from 7pm to 9pm and cost R40.
THE HIGHLAND FLING
Ceilidh Dancing
St John’s Parish Church Hall, Wynberg, Cape Town. Tel: 082 214 7174
Ceilidh (pronounced ”kaylee”) is like a structured barn dance that is native to Scotland. It is the real McCoy. Of the 1 300 traditional dances, this club teaches 100, including Scottish country dancing, which is big in Japan. Formal classes start again on Wednesdays from March 7 and every second Monday from March 12. Informal classes can be arranged for a group at any time. You don’t have to wear kilts, just bring energy and a costume so you can swim afterwards. Classes cost R10.
CHINESE, IF YOU PLEASE
Cheung Hing Hong Chinese Supermarket
35 Newport Avenue, Glenashley, Durban North. Tel: (031) 562 0633
Like all Chinese supermarkets, Cheung Hing Hong is overflowing with Asian ingredients, delicacies and paraphernalia. They also have everyÂthing needed for sushi (which is really Japanese, but sits comfortably here anyway): rolling mats, powdered wasabi, a good selection of sake and soy sauce, miso soup, sushi rice and rice wine. Also in stock are fresh vegetables such as bok choi, Asian beers, Chinese oolong tea, green tea, lanterns and whatever else you can think of for a cultural revolution.
CAPTURING INDIA
Contemplations: Tibet, India and Nepal
ART Gallery, 20 Main Road, Kalk Bay. Tel: (021) 788 8718
This photographic exhibition conveys the enchantment and paradoxes of countries the photographer says ”stay with her like a soft hand on her shoulder”. Freelance journalist and photographer Judy van der Walt has spent months at a time in India and these photos are a collection from her trips over six years. The images are interiors of Buddhist and Hindu temples, landscapes and portraits. Contemplations is on until December 30.
HAVEN IN THE CITY
Coptic Orthodox Patriarchy
Southern African Mission Headquarters, 11 Selkirk Street, Parkview, Johannesburg. Tel: (011) 486 3544
Privileged visitors are blessed with a tour of this tranquil spiritual haven by the charming Bishop Antonius Markos who, prior to his calling, was a successful Cairo-based surgeon. The craftwork, including ornately carved doors and the bishop’s throne in this magnificent cathedral, was executed in Egypt before being exported to Johannesburg in 1999. The icons are painted in gold and egg tempura, and there are showcases containing ornately wrapped bone fragments of apostles and saints. There are antique chalice boxes and the 16m dome was constructed in 10 days by a fourth-generation Egyptian builder. The site has been visited four times by his holiness Pope Shenouda III of Alexandria and patriarch of the See of St Mark.
GET THE LOOK
Daniel’s Africa Clothing
6 Second Street, corner Louis Botha Avenue, Orange Grove, Johannesburg. Tel: (011) 728 3840
Talented thirtysomething dress designer and tailor Daniel Osakwe’s boutique doubles as a barber shop. It specialises in what is called the Euro Africa style: long, colourful skirts with buttons and appliqué. But suave barber Tony OlioÂmogbe assures us they make Xhosa, Zulu and Tswana women’s wear as well. Most impressive are the men’s suits, which cost from R1 000 up and can be created in two days. As the slogan on the street sign says, ”Love yourself to look good.”
ON THE WINGS OF A DRAGON
Dragon boat racing
Tel: (021) 447 2820. Web: www.dragonboat.org.za
Any website that says, ”May a dragon’s breath caress your paddle” is worth a look. Dragon boat racing is an ancient team sport, which originated in China 2 400 years ago. A drummer keeps the time and sets the pace for 20 paddlers and one ”sweep” (steersman). For a regatta, dragonheads and tails adorn the boats and a ceremony is held to awaken the spirit of the dragon – the symbol of health and prosperity. Dragon boat racing is held in the Marina Basin at the V&A Waterfront in front of the Cape Grace. Visit the website for training times.
TAKE A RIDE
DRC RSA Express
Asia City, 80 Marcia Street, Bruma Lake, Johannesburg. Tel: (011) 622 3256. Web: www.drcexpress.co.za
Nestled on the banks of Bruma Lake is this wonderful African bus company that journeys to Lubumbasha once a week. The double-decker, air-conditioned coaches are clean, they have toilets and downstairs lounges play happy Congolese party music and screen Nigerian DVDs. The drivers hail from Nigeria, Zambia and the Congo and there are three drivers per bus. The excursions take off on Wednesdays at 11am and the ride takes all of 33 hours. Price: R999 one way.
FEEL THE BEAT
Drumming SA
Novalis Institute, Rosmead Avenue, Wynberg, Cape Town. Tel: (021) 686 3872. Web: www.drummingsa.co.za
West African djembe drumming has its roots in Mali, which is where the founder of Drumming SA trained under Malian master drummer Sidi Sangare. The drum circle evolved out of a group of friends sharing a passion for rhythm and is now a team of talented performers who offer drum circles, team building, road shows and public demos. The Circle reopens on January 16. Classes for beginners are on Tuesdays from 6.30pm to 8.15pm and 7.15pm to 9pm for intermediates. Cost R40. Drum hire: R15.
ACT ON PEACE
Exile at Home
KwaSuka Theatre, 53 Stamfordhill Road, Greyville, Durban. Tel: (031) 305 6889
The Arab-Hebrew Theatre brings the two-hander Exile at Home to the Musho! theatre festival in January. Examining issues of homeland, belonging, identity, immigration and memory, the piece follows several stories, including that of an Israeli tourist guide working in Berlin and grappling with the politically and personally laden space from which her parents had fled during the Holocaust, and an old Arab-Muslim tending the fields he grew up in, which are now owned by Israeli artists. ”A multicultural collage which represents Zionism in all its glory and debaseness with compassion, love and self-humour … passionate and rich in its associations,” – Ido Dagan, Tel Aviv newspaper. Exile at Home shows on January 10 and 11 at the KwaSuka Theatre at 8pm. The Musho! festival runs from January 10 to 21. Patrons can purchase season tickets for R200.
A BITE OUT OF PAKISTAN
Farouk Bahi’s Paan Ki Dokaan kiosk
Corner of Albert and Prince Edward streets, Durban
Towards the Leopold Street end of Durban’s CBD, the smell from tandoori ovens mingles with burning agrabathi in pool halls playing qawwali or Bollywood tunes in what has emerged as a Pakistani/Bangladeshi quarter. There are several good Pakistani restaurants, including Bismillah’s (85 Albert Street), Al Fathima’s (86 Albert Street) and the Chicken Tikka Palace around the corner on Prince Edward Street. Ayurvedic scholars discovered, thousands of years ago, that chewing paan helped with digestion, so after gorging on tortured chicken, some fresh, hand-rolled paan from Farouk Bhai’s Paan Ki Dokaan kiosk won’t go amiss. Paan is also much more colourful than an after-dinner mint and, apparently, it was chewed by women to add a rosier tinge to the lips. Farouk, or one of his nephews, cousins, et al, is usually sitting behind a bank of desiccated flavoured coconut, supari sweets, beetle-nut, rose syrup, chocolate paan masala, gulab chutni and chuna. Preferable to the surly paan vendors across the road.
GET TO THE LOCAL
The Fireman’s Arms
Corner of Buitengracht and Mechau streets, Cape Town. Tel: (021) 419 1513 or 083 255 6116
Open since 1864 and little has changed. Except now this pub, owned by a Brit and patronised by expat Englishmen, has grand slot gambling machines. The decor includes a piranha head from the Amazon, Homer Simpson’s brain scan, fire helmets, bobby hats and photos of former British prime minister Edward Heath’s visit. Personalised beer mugs engraved with customers’ names adorn the bar. Winners of the typically British pub quiz receive alcohol. But don’t expect British beer, because it doesn’t sell. The pub quiz is held every Thursday from 7.30pm to 11pm and costs R15 a person.
HUBBLY PARTY
Hamada Goes East
Flea Market World, Marcia Street, Bruma Lake, Johannesburg. Tel: (011) 836 5933
A diminutive Egyptian woman with a warm smile guards a stall that could be anywhere in the Middle East. There’s a selection of fabrics, pictures, hubbly-bubbly pipes and richly coloured belly-dancing outfits sporting shiny dangling coins. But one thing distinguishes this place from similar traders. For a price, Hamada himself will cart the whole thing to your house and set you up in Egyptian splendour to party through the night with a belly dancer and fragrant tobaccos.
ROCKY OF AFRICA
Harrington Street Boxing Gym
104 Harrington Street, Cape Town. Tel: 084 208 8306
Spar with a champion boxing coach from the DRC. This small, underground, upmarket boxing gym offers one-on-one training and evening classes with Commando, the coach. Skip, run on a treadmill, lift weights and punch bags in the most challenging workout of your life while Congolese music pumps in the background. Commando teaches one-on-one during the day and groups from 6pm to 7pm in the evening.
NOW AND ZEN
Japanese Gardens
Tinsley Drive or Prospect Hall Road, Durban North. Tel: (031) 563 1333
Seven hectares of bridges, ponds, gazebos and spinning, swirling ninjas … erm, those weren’t matsutake mushrooms, obviously. The Japanese Gardens offer a tranquil oasis where one can find a quiet spot to picnic or ruminate. In summer, if one side-steps the smug newly-weds having their pictures taken and the families picnicking and braaiing, there are little pockets of peace to revel in.
SPIRITUAL BODYGUARDS
Jing Hua Supermarket
39 Derrick Avenue, Cyrildene, Johannesburg. Tel: (011) 622 1800
Of the myriad Chinese supermarkets in Cyrildene, Jing Hua stands out because it has a full range of humble to magnificent porcelains and ceramics. It is also the perfect place to research and purchase an expensive Chinese deity, or two if you need extra spiritual protection. Friendly staff will help you decide whether you want the warrior saint Guang Gong or the more ethereal female presence of Guan Ying. Porcelain deities are sold for R10 000 to R20 000 and an ornate wooden shrine for as much as R25 000.
TEA FOR TWO
Jong Hua Tea Shop
28 Derrick Avenue, Cyrildene, Johannesburg
There’s something ageless and authentic about the Taiwanese Jong Hua Tea Shop. It could almost be a set for a kung fu drama, or a soap opera about people far away. At the entrance there are wooden pigeonholes showing dozens of teas and through the back is the teahouse, adorned in lavender neoclassical Victorian wallpaper. Here immigrants while away the hours nostalgically over – you guessed it – a cup of tea. There’s dieter’s ”slim tea”, flower teas, green tea, oolong, black tea and large canisters of dried rose buds for extra fragrance. As I read out the names on the labels, everyone cheered with glee.
TO THAI FOR
Journey
186 Long Street, Cape Town. Tel: (021) 424 5209
This is a journey into a funky red room, which takes you straight to the heart of little Thailand. Journey’s owners travel to Bangkok every three months to hand-pick modern streetwear from young designers. They do not buy on the net or from factories and don’t stock cheap clothing. They have Cape exclusivity for their Thai kid’s range and sell retro designs and trinkets, such as 1960s vinyl suitcases, luminous frog-shaped washing baskets, funny face alarm clocks and Barbie doll chandeliers. Best thing: their clothes are affordably priced between R150 and R350.
MORE MAMMA MIA
L’edicola
136 Cowey Road, Berea, Durban
One of the compulsive attractions of L’edicola is the homely, human interaction one barely finds in the homogenised superstores that dominate contemporary shopping experiences in sterilised malls. Eva – every bit the Italian matriarch – is only too happy to lop off a piece of Parma ham or Milanese salami for a taste and chat about the merits of various cheeses (the gorgonzola is recommended if you like it blue, veiny and almost tottering around). The deli is a foodie treasure trove with large legs of ham hanging from the ceiling, olives, pasta, Italian mediaeval cake from Siena, biscotti, wine, anchovies, pre-prepared meals – and the prices rival the McSupermarkets. L’edicola, like many businesses, traded in the Durban CBD for about 25 years before moving to Berea nine years ago.
SHACK UP
Mama Tembo’s Shack Chic
18 Gleneagles Drive, Greenside, Johannesburg. Tel: (011) 646 7302
www.mamatembo.co.za
The crazy decor at this tongue-in-cheek local restaurant obviously took a lot of hard work. While the interior is inspired by the inventiveness of poverty-stricken squatter camp dwellers, the menu is inspired by the country’s road to democracy. Humorously named dishes include Winnie’s veg curry, Mandela’s meat platter, Tutu’s T-bone and Khoza’s rump. A good place to take folks from far away – that’s if you aren’t going to get the real thing on your township tour.
YEBO AMIGO
Mexicasa
32 Buiten Street, Bo-Kaap, Cape Town. Tel: 082 537 5960 or (021) 423 1202. Web: www.mexicasa.co.za
Learn Mexican-style Spanish, drink 100% agave tequila or whack the piñata (papier mâché figurine filled with party goodies) in blind man’s bluff. Sandy Morland uses imported ingredients to cater for groups of six to 16, who are provided with a multi-faceted Mexican experience in her colourful Bo-Kaap home. Or browse her home for offbeat hand-made artefacts, such as artworks for dias de los muertos (day of the dead), tortilla baskets, ponchos, sarapes (colourful striped blankets) and sombreros (hats). She also does tequila tastings. Drop in or call to make an appointment. Dinner is R150 a head.
NEARLY NOLLYWOOD
Mr E Salon & Video Shop
27 Biccard Street, Braamfontein, Johannesburg. Tel: (011) 339 8940
This is the ultimate Nollywood destination. The walls are lined with the dramas of life, bearing messages that are almost biblical: Money Kills, Lady of Faith, Women of Faith, My Destiny, Pretty Angels, My Beloved Family, Dangerous Sisters. The hire fee is R10 and the purchase fee is R50 – customers assure us you’ll watch one and be hooked. Like so many city establishments, the place doubles as a hair salon and so the serious business of Nigerian cinema happens to the soundtrack of chatty women having their hair braided.
BURNING THE DANCE FLOOR
Napalma
Skido’s Nightclub, corner of Clark and Umbilo roads, Glenwood, Durban
The four-piece Brazilian outfit Napalma has a reputation for incendiary live performances. A combination of djembe/percussion (Cid Travaglia and Rafael Jabah), vocals (Mozambican Ivo Maia) and electronic programming (Paulo Bolzan), Napalma (derived from the Portuguese expression na palma da mão, which means ”at the palm of the hand”) explores broken beats and South American rhythms with roots in Africa, while touching on a variety of genres, including reggae and house. Expect a sweltering, high-energy gig more sweat-drenched than a clinging tanga on a Rio beach. Supported by trance-endental maskanda guitarist Madala Kunene. Catch them live on December 23.
KENYA CALYPSO
Newlight Bar and Nightclub
Corner of Brickhill and Pine streets, Durban
Frequented mostly by Kenyans, Congolese, Tanzanians and the cosmo-university crowd searching for Ahfrican meaning, Newlight teems on the weekends. The music ranges from international mainstream to East and West African sounds and Latino vibes. There’s an outside deck for summer evenings, big screen TV football, and a pub-grub-meets-Kenyan menu, which includes ugali (a Kenyan variation on pap), mukimo (a combination of mushy peas, mashed potatoes and maize), sukumi (green vegetables) and the ubiquitous braaied meat, nyama choma.
SCOTCH AND SODA
Not Quite Billy
KwaSuka Theatre, 53 Stamfordhill Road, Greyville, Durban. Tel: (031) 305 6889
Cape Town-based comedian Mark Palmer deep fries the Mars Bar pearls of Scottish comedian Billy Connolly in tribute show Not Quite Billy. A regurgitation of Connolly’s finer moments, it’s almost as hilarious as watching a Scottish goalkeeper in a World Cup football tournament. Shows daily at 8pm until December 23.
LEBANESE NIBBLES
The Olive Station
165 Main Road, Muizenberg, Cape Town. Tel: (021) 788 3264
Olive oil, honey on tap, olive oil tastings, Lebanese feasts with belly dancers and poetry readings – all is available at this Lebanese deli, restaurant and shop. Aside from traditional meze platters, it also sells imported sweets with pistachio nuts, Lebanese coffee, tapenades, marinades, preserves and pomegranate syrups and sauces. Pies are filled with lamb, pine nut and labne (white cheese) or spinach and pimento. Olive bread and even the unique Levantine spice called za’ tar further grace the shelves.
ROAD TO MAPUTO
Panthera Azul
24 Bezuidenhout Street, Troyeville, Johannesburg. Tel: (011) 618 8813
At the service station across the road from the Troyeville Hotel, in the buzz that is created by this largely expatriate Mozambican community, you can catch the bus to Maputo. The coach, emblazoned with the name Panthera Azul, leaves daily at 8am and you should arrive at around 3.30pm. The trip costs R230 for a one-way ticket. The vehicles are air conditioned with reclining seats, and there is the promise (or threat) of piped music.
FEELING IRIE
Seal of Ujamaa
17 Rockey Street, Yeoville, Johannesburg. Tel: (011) 483 2376
Ensconced in the bustle of the immigrant metropolis of Yeoville, Seal of Ujamaa (Swahili for ”familyhood”, but has taken the meaning of African socialism) was opened in 1997 by Ras Chiedza (Shona for ”light”) and is managed by his brother, Ras Tawanda (Shona for ”we are now many”). They are originally from the Trinidad and Tobago and ”deal with goods with a Caribbean and pan-African theme”. They sell reggae and ragga CDs and DVDs, Rastafarian literature, bracelets, hip-hop clothing and paraphernalia celebrating black leaders such as Malcolm X.
MIRROR, MIRROR
The Swiss Beauty Laser Clinic
2 Buiten Street, Cape Town. Tel: (021) 424 7443. www.capepharm.com
Daniel Waldis from Lucerne, Switzerland, owns the first dermal laser clinic of its kind in South Africa for cellulite, stretch marks and hair, wrinkle and tattoo removal. This Swiss technology also uses special wave laser treatment for breast enhancement and Waldis claims this technology is the first in South Africa to suit black skin. He also stocks 100% natural emu oil, which originated from the aboriginal tradition of treating burns with emu fat. The oil removes black rings, heals scars and gets rid of acne.
THE NOODLE EMPIRE
Thai Siam Supermarket
44 Derrick Avenue, Cyrildene, Johannesburg. Tel: (011) 622 1033
This is a wonderful little emporium owned by Rattiya Jaijunla and managed by some friendly local Afrikaners with an obvious penchant for beautiful Asian women who pop in for a chat over tea. The best thing about Thai ingredients is the price – where else could you get a jar of pickles for R10? Pickled grapes, pickled bamboo, pickled garlic, pickled fish, curry pastes, dried anchovies, agar desserts and, of course, oodles of noodles.
ENLIGHTENED BEVERAGE
The Tibetan Teahouse
2 Harrington Road, Seaforth, Simon’s Town. Tel: (021) 786 1544
This sanctuary offers traditional Tibetan food such as thukpa (vegetable and rice noodle soup) and bojhaÂsuma (butter tea). On your birthday waitrons celebrate with the Lui cereÂmony by making a lot of noise with cymbals, horns, conches, yak bells and shaman drums to chase away the previous year’s energy and bring in the new. On sale are auspicious Tibetan prayer flags and singing bowls made of seven metals, which can be brought along on the last Saturday of every month for a cost-free singing bowl meditation at 3pm.
LOMI LOMI RUBDOWN
Touch the Treatment
4 Trinidad Close, Capri Village, Noordhoek Valley. Tel: (021) 785 7071
Lomi lomi is an ancient Polynesian massage, which was practised by kahunas (Hawaiian shamans) to balance and transform energy. Kahunas would dance, chant and massage as a rite of passage ritual. Lomi lomi uses elbows, hands and forearms to make dynamic, fluid and rhythmical strokes all over the whole body. Before relaxing the client with sesame or coconut oil, the therapist energises himself by doing a traditional Hawaiian hula dance. Massages cost a cool R300.
SEHR SCHÖN
Ulrich Naumann Deutsche Bucchandlung
15 to 19 Burg Street, Cape Town. Email: [email protected]
After 45 years, this bona fide inner-city German bookstore is still the literary hot spot for German tourists. It is orderly and hushed and everyone who works there speaks German. It stocks language books, travel guides, cookbooks and bestsellers (such as Wilbur Smith, Paulo Coelho and Haruki Murukami) translated into German. There’s even a thick hardcover on Tantra. German games, magazines, DVDs, CDs, postcards and kiddies’ books are also on sale, and shop attendants consider it their pleasure to gift-wrap your purchases.
EMERALD OCCASION
Under an Irish Moon
Theatre at the Pavilion, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town. Tel: (021) 419 7661. Web: www.thepavilion.co.za
The Irish are known for exporting the good stuff: beer, whiskey and music. Their traditional songs are still accompanied today by instruments such as the fiddle and pennyÂwhistle. This tribute to the music legends of Ireland features Cedric Vandenschrik, Amanda Tiffin and Dave Ledbetter and includes songs by U2, The Corrs, The Commitments, The Cranberries, Bob Geldof, Sinead O’Connor, Van Morrison, Chris de Burgh, Ronan Keating and Thin Lizzy. Under an Irish Moon is on until January 27.