Many people dream of this. I could do it,†says Indian-born fashion designer Vikram Phadnis, perched on the armrest of a large leather-bound chair. The chair sits amid racks of glittering garments that line his first stand-alone store in Johannesburg.
The slight man renowned for his work for the Indian film industry is speaking to me at his shop opening. It comes the day after a preview of his clothes at The Palms nightclub in Sandton. The show, which drew the likes of Minister in the Presidency Dr Essop Pahad, was a taste of what people can expect at the MTN Durban Fashion Week, where Phadnis’s designs will be on display alongside a host of local labels.
Phadnis, who has dressed some of India’s most beautiful people, including international star Aishwarya Rai, was one of the two designers chosen to represent India at the 10th Sanlam South African Fashion Week last year. From there it has taken a mere year for the designer to move into the South African market, with the help of South African business partner Surehka Seeth.
‘I had no idea it could all happen so soon,†he says of the establishment of his label in South Africa.
Phadnis began his Bollywood career 14 years ago, starting out as a choreographer and working on his first film in what he thought would be ‘a once-off capacityâ€. But, he says, the ‘energy was so high†and he got ‘such a kick out of it†that he remained in the industry, rising to fame as a designer. His accolades include the International Indian Film Academy best designer award for his work on the film Mujhse Shaadi Karogi in 2005.
‘I always wanted to do clothes, and got into clothes through film,†he says.
Phadnis looks set to become a permanent fixture in the South African fashion industry, with the launch of an additional store in Durban’s Gateway Mall in November.
‘There is a lot of growth in South Africa,†he says of our local fashion industry. He lists Clive Rundle and Amanda Laird-Cherry as two homegrown designers he admires.
‘I am very happy that I am part of that fraternity,†he says.
Phadnis is best known for his traditional Indian bridal wear as well as his ready-to-wear diffusion range.
‘South Africans can expect lots of bling in my clothes and a lot of East meets West mix,†he says.
‘Bling†certainly is a feature in a lot of his work. The elaborately beaded and bejewelled detail of his traditional bridal gowns is reflected in his more Western cocktail dresses and evening wear.
Phadnis admits that he does still need to understand the South African customer better and that ‘as time progresses we will look at what sells faster and will stock more of itâ€.
While Phadnis designs both men and women’s wear, he says he much prefers the ‘glamour†of creating clothes for women. Glamour isn’t subordinate to practicality, however, and, he says, he doesn’t make ‘clothing that a woman can’t wearâ€.
Film still remains a huge part of this designer’s life, so much so that he has plans to direct his first film before the end of the year.
‘I’ve been behind the camera so long that it’s important I don’t stagnate and I believe I will make a good film,†he says.
The film, according to Phadnis, will be a ‘mature†work, dealing with a ‘very emotional subject†close to his heart. What that subject is, however, he is not about to give away.
