Stretches of pristine beaches wind around Mozambique’s coast, a slice of paradise where trouble is brewing as foreigners cash in at the expense of locals from a boom in tourism.
Practically destroyed during a 27-year civil war ending in 1994, tourism in the former Portuguese colony has skyrocketed in recent years, as holidaymakers are drawn to its white sands, crystal clear waters and relaxed atmosphere.
However locals are railing against an influx of foreigners, mostly from neighbouring South Africa, accused of entering into dodgy land deals with Mozambicans and flouting environmental concerns as they set up business.
A two-hour ferry ride from the capital Maputo, lies Inhaca Island whose 100km of breathtaking coastline and unique coral reefs are as attractive to tourists as the mangroves and forests further inland.
It is here that tempers have flared recently over land disputes with South Africans.
”The exact problem is the exploitation of the land by South Africans and that they don’t benefit the local people here,” said Lazaro Timba, secretary of the island’s sole village.
In Mozambique foreigners are not allowed to own land but, according to Timba, many seek to circumvent the law by entering into development ”partnerships” with local property owners.
”Local people approach the traditional authority ruled by the chief and say ‘this is my friend who wants to help me’. Then the South Africans bring tents or build infrastructure and start to bring a lot of people.”
Timba said while the local authority had sent inspectors to the lodges, and had torn one or two down after finding they were operating as businesses, many still slip through the net.
”They bribe chiefs in the administration in Maputo and the government contacts locals and says ‘take it easy’,” says Rogerio, a guide who drives tourists around the island.
His family used to own a boat ferrying locals and tourists to Maputo and nearby Portuguese Island until a South African brought in four boats and stopped all local operators from working.
”He then raised prices so no local could afford to use the boat.”
Just up the beach, a sprawling campsite has been set up about 200m from the glistening ocean. The owner of the land, a local fisherman, lives in a small room adjacent to the site on land he inherited.
He says his South African partner approached him when he was holidaying at a nearby camp seven years ago and promised to help him with his fishing business.
”He promised to give me a boat and fix my current boat and didn’t do that,” he says, adding he is happy with the arrangement but would like more money.
The fisherman receives a monthly sum that has remained the same over the past seven years, a time in which Mozambique’s tourism industry has gone from $63,6-million dollars to $157-million.
”I can’t complain because the South African was a bit clever. He fixed a certain amount and put it on paper,” he shrugs.
Gildo Neves of Mozambique Tourism says the boom in visitor numbers can be attributed to investment in infrastructure, marketing and personnel training.
In the northern province of Inhambane, similar land conflicts abound, with locals particularly incensed about lodges which fence off beaches to keep their wealthy clients from local beachgoers, often with electric fences.
”They put barriers on the beach and when locals want to go to the beach they say you have to pay this amount,” says Natercia Mamhique, who organises leisure activities for visitors.
With about 578-million visitors in 2005, and a contribution of about 2,5% to the country’s gross domestic product, the abuse of Mozambique’s fragile eco-systems could scupper future tourism potential.
”There are signs saying don’t drive the car on the beach and they do that. They don’t respect the environment,” Mamhique said.
Carlos Serra, a land and environmental lawyer who works with the country’s justice ministry, says the main problem is the implementation of the law.
”Mozambique has very advanced laws, modern laws. Our land law was the product of a very participative, democratic process.
”This law gives local communities a lot of power. However the reality in the field is very different.” – Sapa-AFP