I’ve often bemoaned the lack of interesting, affordable, off-the-beaten-track local places to visit for short breaks and weekends. But now I have found one – Lesheba Wilderness – and to my shame it has been around for 14 years, hidden at the top of the magnificent Soutpansberg mountains, a short hop from Louis Trichardt.
During this time Lesheba was renovating, getting involved with local communities and immersing itself in the wonderful, intricate spirit of Venda hospitality and culture.
Lesheba’s commitment to its own, colourful brand of responsible tourism was rewarded with certification from Fair Trade in Tourism South Africa. A bonus is that it is easy and relatively quick to reach. Depending on your navigation skills, four to five short hours is all it takes from Jozi.
By lunchtime I was at the gates of Lesheba with my friend, safari guide Mark Tennant. A long, extremely winding and vertical mountain road up to almost cloud level unfolded and 25 minutes later we arrived in paradise. Lesheba is in a hidden valley literally on top of the Soutpansberg. It is home to one of the most unique bio-diverse habitats in the country and is breathtakingly beautiful, with panoramic views and vistas at every turn.
Our home from home was Lesheba’s Venda Village lodge – a lovingly rebuilt former Venda homestead, given a touch of panache and originality by renowned local artist and sculptor Noria Mabasa.
Her touch can be seen everywhere, from the reclining clay forms of voluptuous women and contented cattle to perhaps the most interesting bathroom in South Africa. Here you relax, with a unending view over the Dulini valley, lying in a stone tub next to the prone form of a sleeping Venda maiden, whose outdoor shower head protrudes, gramophone-style, from the ear of a rather imposing clay man. Other art works include amazing wood carvings by Paul Thavhana and some wonderful Venda textiles.
The rooms are fabulously decked out and range from the luxury Mwedzi and Duvha suites, with plunge pools, to standard huts with oversized beds and colourful linen. The overall style and look of the lodge is a breath of fresh air in an industry peppered with look-alike, “out-of-Africa” safari experiences. But Lesheba is so much more than a safari lodge, even though game activities are the order of the day.
Sitting on a game vehicle with Tennant is never boring. For a start he jumps off at regular intervals, enthusing over little things at the side of the road that most people would miss. But when he springs to the ground from a moving vehicle, pausing only to utter the word “leopard” before making off into dense undergrowth, you understand where the “mad” in Mark’s TV series Mad Mike and Mark comes from.
The rest of us jump out and get ready to follow when he emerges from the bush, pointing to visible paw prints in the soft sand at our feet. “He’s up there somewhere,” Tennant whispers, looking up at the towering mass of Soutpansberg rock above us. I can almost feel those yellow eyes boring into me.
Back in the vehicle – and not 100m further – our path is blocked by several white rhino. Lesheba owner John Rosmarin says his resident rhino population is relaxed and used to humans, allowing guests to enjoy endless hikes and trails unhindered.
Our exploring took us to Hamasha Bush Camp – a self-contained, self-catering option at Lesheba on the edge of an impressive gorge and encircled by the ever-present peaks of the Soutpansberg’s finest. Hamasha offers accommodation for eight people in two spacious, two-bedroom chalets, with en-suite facilities, a communal lounge, kitchen and outside braai pit. It is booked on an exclusive basis, making it perfect for a family getaway.
The village is great for families, but is not suitable for small children – it sits on a sheer bluff and features valuable art works.
Sitting in the fire pit after an exhilarating afternoon game drive, looking up at a picture-perfect canopy of stars, I wonder why Lesheba has remained a secret in the South African tourism firmament. The rigours of life in the Gauteng fast lane seem a million light years away and the spirit of Africa feels close at hand.
One of Mabasa’s sculpted cows peeks out from the undergrowth and I understand how it fits here – artist and visitor alike cannot fail to be inspired by this place. It’s a physical impossibility.
The Lowdown:
Accommodation rates at Hamasha Bush Camp start at about R300 a person, a night, with a minimum requirement of two people for a two-night stay.
The Venda Village is similarly affordable, with self-catering or fully catered options available. If you take your own food, the interactive kitchen has one of the best views possible, but I can recommend the wonderful home-cooked meals prepared by the staff.
Self-catering options at the Village start at about R400 a person, a night, midweek for the standard huts.
Fully catered options on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis, with one game activity included, start at about R1 200 a person, a night. There is no single supplement at Lesheba.
For more information contact Lesheba Wilderness on 015 593 0076 or 083 444 0456, or visit www.lesheba.co.za