Top chef in row with Michelin guide

It was the kind of flamboyant outburst you expect from a chef. After being reduced to just one Michelin star in the latest edition of the world’s most famous guide for gourmets, a disgusted Gualtiero Marchesi, the father of la nuova cucina Italiana, declared in June that he was “giving back” his remaining star.

Last week, to his evident astonishment, the authors of the guide took him at his word. Not only did they strip away the last star boasted by his restaurant at Erbusco, east of Milan, they struck his establishment out of the book altogether.

With the verbal equivalent of a Gallic shrug, a spokesperson for Michelin said: “When, as in this case, a restaurant does not wish to be judged or appear in the guides we take it out and it simply goes into the telephone book.”

An irate Marchesi said: “Faced with a case of lese-majesty, the Red Guide has responded with a beheading.” He added: “I regard it as an out-and-out attack on Italian cuisine and its symbols.”

Back in 1986, when his tiny downstairs restaurant in Milan was a powerhouse of gastronomic inventiveness, Marchesi became the first Italian to be honoured with three stars by Michelin. He is credited with restoring the risotto to a place of honour in his nation’s cuisine and, in his heyday, caused a sensation by serving up one that bore a square of pure gold foil.

The sprightly 78-year-old told the newspaper Corriere della Sera what outraged him most about the guide’s action: “We Italians are still so ingenuous as to entrust the success of our restaurants to a French guide that last year gave top marks to only five Italian restaurants, against 26 French ones.” —

An actual Black Friday deal

Subscribe for R2/mth for the first three months. Cancel anytime.

Subscribers get access to all our best journalism, subscriber-only newsletters, events and a weekly cryptic crossword.

Related stories

WELCOME TO YOUR M&G

Already a subscriber? Sign in here

Advertising

Latest stories

Mandatory vaccination on cards as Ramaphosa keeps South Africa on...

Ramaphosa calls out world leaders for irrational travel bans as scientists gather evidence on new Omicron variant

South Africa’s just energy transition: A balancing act

South Africa’s transition to renewables will depend on its ability to attract sustained energy investments

South Africa at the start of a Covid-19 vaccine the...

The World Health Organisation has enlisted a team of South African researchers to produce a new mRNA Covid-19 vaccine, but with no recipe to follow, it’s not an easy task

Western Union suspends services in Mozambique’s Cabo Delgado

It is now considerably more difficult for Mozambicans in the conflict-hit province to use financial services
Advertising

press releases

Loading latest Press Releases…
×