/ 9 October 2009

The art of city eating

I want to live at Narina Trogon. I want those beautifully designed tables and chairs, bright, airy spaces and intriguing artwork to be mine.

Narina Trogon is a Braamfontein restaurant that is, on the surface at least, all about design, so it makes sense that it is one of the restaurants recommended for those taking part in the Spring Art Tour. America-born owner Carlyn Zehner has a background in and passion for art and design, and this is obvious in all elements of the restaurant, from the clean lines of the space, to the art on the walls, to the eccentric details (such as individual potted herbs on the tables) that give the place a life and energy, despite the cool sophistication of the surrounds. Zehner’s passion for the city and its people is also reflected in the warmth and charm of the staff, who have all worked there since it opened its doors a little over a year and a half ago.

By day it is a busy city eatery, serving light meals to those that work nearby, and light meals and salads are the bulk of the lunchtime trade. By night, it is an upmarket and decidedly hip dinner spot.

Chef Ross Wilson updates the small menu regularly, making the most of seasonal produce. Dishes are simply prepared, allowing each ingredient to shine, and presentation is clean and elegant.

We started with fresh vegetable wraps, served with sweet chilli sauce and a particularly good soy sauce. We also shared some of the best garlic bread I have ever tasted: slices of toasted, homemade bread with a subtle garlic oil. Other options include a pea and mint soup (which has since been recommended to me by friends for my next visit) and salmon gravadlax.

Mains include sirloin with a choice of sauces and lamb kebabs with cous cous and salad. My partner chose the only vegetarian main, a spinach and feta pie. It’s a predictable vegetarian option, but it was particularly good. I chose the fishcakes, served with a pineapple, onion and red pepper salsa, and served with sweet chilli sauce on the side. It was a fantastic combination of fresh, sharp flavours and warm, homely goodness.

Puddings are very difficult to choose from. After much sighing, and trying to decide whether we could justify three desserts between the two of us, we passed up the options of dark chocolate grappa mousse and homemade ice cream for a bread and butter pudding and a chocolate fondant. The bread and butter pudding (with the emphasis on the butter) was warm and rich. The chocolate fondant was perfectly squidgy and delicious on the inside, and served with a generous portion of frangelico custard. Our charming waitress, Patricia, also gave it her seal of approval when we gave her a taste, on hearing that she had never tried it before.

The award-winning wine list is simply and clearly laid out, with good descriptions of the wines, making it easy to choose the perfect bottle. There are a number of organic wines in stock, and these are also clearly marked. Although there is no special menu for the Art Tour, specials for the weekend of the Tour will be a warm tuna Nicoise salad with grilled tuna, quail eggs, green beans, roast baby potatoes and beurre blanc foam, and roast parsnip soup with bacon croutons.

I can’t wait for my next visit.

Narina Trogon
011 339 6645
81 De Korte Street
Braamfontein
email: [email protected]