After driving through the gates of the grand old building that houses Emoyeni Restaurant, our expectations were high.
The historic house, built in 1905 on a ridge in Parktown as a private residence for finance minister Henry Hull, offers wonderful views over the northern suburbs of Johannesburg.
Restaurateur Michel Morand has created what he describes as a brasserie-style restaurant in this venue, which had previously been known for its banquets and events.
After a shaky start when we couldn’t find any staff, we were led through to the terrace for a pre-dinner drink and a chance to enjoy the stunning views over Westcliff and Sandton. (You can even see as far as the Magliesburg on a clear day.)
The food
The traditional onion soup was a comforting choice with great depth of flavour, and the goat’s cheese marinated in chilli-infused hazelnut oil was velvety and moreish. For the mains, a slow-cooked lamb shank on pap mash was meltingly soft but needed a pinch more seasoning, while the vegetable lasagne with pepper confit and pesto was well executed. The menu presents brasserie classics with a few twists: côte de boeuf with chips and béarnaise sauce; Japanese crumbed hake with lemon butter caper sauce; Karoo lamb stew done in ‘spicy Mumbai style’ and vanilla rice pudding.
The mood
The dining room has a classic feel, with wooden floors, intricate cornicing and linen tablecloths. Only three tables were occupied (bigger groups are served in an upstairs room) which contributed to the lack of buzzy atmosphere. I overheard a group of French expatriates confess to being slightly disappointed at the lack of joie de vivre in the restaurant, but impressed with the food.
The wine
It was a very well chosen list of sometimes-elusive producers, including those from up-and-coming areas such as the Swartland. This is one of the best venues in Jo’burg to find labels from classic European regions such as Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux. You could also enjoy a cocktail on the terrace or the good selection of malt whiskies in the lounge bar, whose plush leather armchairs and fireplace make it a lovely spot for a wee dram in the winter months.
The people
This is the new venue for top restaurateur Michel Morand — formerly of Auberge Michel in Sandton — who was recently invited to set up home at Emoyeni.
The verdict
Given its fabulous outlook, quality of food and the grandeur of its surroundings, Emoyeni has the potential to become one of Jo’burg’s top destination restaurants. More work needs to be done on a creating the right atmosphere, but after that there’s nothing to hold Emoyeni back from reaching the peak of swish dining.
Go to www.eatout.co.za for more restaurant listings and reviews.
