Walkerson’s is well stocked with trout dams throughout the estate, which also makes for great late afternoon walks (Image Credit: Ryan Enslin).
I’ve been going to Dullstroom for years. As a youngster, we would drive through the town and stop off at Harrie’s Pancakes, a welcome respite from a journey into the mountains beyond for a weekend of hiking and swimming in the streams.
As a student, I went to Dullstroom with friends to mark the halfway point in our final year of study. It was a raucous few days involving the mass theft of shaving cream, a bout of hiding in the local graveyard just past the witching hour, and a meal at The Old Transvaal Inn. Remember them? The inn was one of the first hiding places of the million-rand loot in the Sunday Times Finders Keepers competition.
The little artsy town is known for its mild climate, conjuring up, in some, fond recollections of days spent on the Scottish Highlands, owing to its position on the Highveld plateau at 2 077m above sea level. Dullstroom is one of the highest towns in South Africa. For many a Joburger, the town is a convenient halfway stop en route to the Kruger National Park.
Not to discount these fond memories of the place, but Dullstroom has, over the past few years, become somewhat staid. Predictable in the same offerings year in and year out — at least in my now-adult travel-writer mind. Still a popular weekend spot for many, to me, it has felt like a place locked in time, for some time now.
So, I decided a road trip was in order and jumped into a Mercedes-Benz GLB 250 (one always has to be ready for those potholes), my stead for the exploration I was yearning for, and headed to the current title holder of town with the highest railway station. I wanted to find something exciting and new in Dullstroom.
y travel companion on my Dullstroom time of exploration, the beautifully appointed Mercedes Benz GLB (Image Credit: Ryan Enslin).
This is what I found.
Most people flock to Dullstroom for fishing. It is literally a fisherman’s paradise, from the local shops selling the requisite equipment to eateries serving the fruits of anglers’ labours and accommodation offerings found on trout dams as far as the eye can see. It’s a quaint place. Putting in a few phone calls to friends in the town before departing, the consensus was that Vine Wine Bar and Eatery, the new kid on the block, was to be tried. Off I went.
The well-stocked bar at Vine Wine Bar and Eatery finished in hues of reds and yellows (Image Credit: Ryan Enslin).I naughtily tapped “Vine” into the GLB’s navigation system as I entered the town, intent on finding this spot so well spoken of, and was surprised to see that it was a relatively new building just off the main drag. I entered a space unlike anything I was expecting.
In complete non-Dullstroom fashion, the space celebrated a sense of sophistication while being welcoming at the same time. Large sofas, wingback chairs and Persian rugs were arranged in lounge sections which took up a great deal of space in the barn-style establishment, while tables were strategically placed throughout.
The eclectically decorated Vine Wine Bar and Eatery welcomes each guest to a space aimed and human connection(Image Credit: Ryan Enslin).
Large pieces of art, local as I later found out, hung from the walls, the hues complimenting the texture of the raw brickwork. A prominent rock-built fireplace at the centre called for a slower pace to life, to be enjoyed during cooler temperatures and with a glass of good red wine.
And then there was the bar, gloriously lit in warm tones of rose gold, yellows and reds. Quite a wine collection is to be found at Vine, which offers about 350 options, with notable South African wines available too. Plans are afoot to expand the offering to 450 wines later this year.
Vine offers a lounge-to-table approach to the dining experience, whether lunch or dinner. At reservation, guests are allocated a lounge area and a table area for the duration of their visit. Upon arriving, you are shown to your dedicated lounge area, where drinks and starters are served. Vine calls these “small plates”. Here, connection is encouraged between guests, augmented by the wine and cocktail offerings, an avant-garde menu and a profusion of books and board games. Try the garlic-infused snails wrapped in phyllo pastry with apple and gorgonzola sauce; it’ll give you a great introduction to the Vine ethos. That’s if they are still on the menu.
Mains are served in the dedicated table area. Here chef Michael Thomas’s seasonal menu, changed every two weeks, comes into its own. Most ingredients are sourced locally, with a focus on sustainability. Dessert can be taken back at your lounge area or at the table. It’s all about choice. The crisp pork belly finished with decadent chocolate moelleux makes for a fine end to a rather fine dining experience.
Chatting to co-owner Stephan Spamer, he shared his thoughts about Vine, “It is a warm, rustic experience where guests unwind, relax and rediscover themselves, enjoying good food and wine.” And it is by no means the end of his and Karl Schoemans’s vision for the town, as he tells me about SOHO Life, opening in April 2023. The new space will include a lifestyle area offering a patisserie, retail outlets, an art gallery and a gin bar.
Having satiated my appetite for new adventures in town, I headed to a firm favourite in the valley – Walkersons Hotel and Spa. What would a weekend jaunt be without a great place to sleep? Among the rolling hills and endless dams, the celebration of time spent in the Scottish Highlands marches on. My room and large veranda overlooked one of the many trout dams on the property, which immediately imbued a sense of calm and peace.
Walkerson’s is well stocked with trout dams throughout the estate, which also makes for great late afternoon walks (Image Credit: Ryan Enslin).
Not being a fisherman myself, I decided to explore the property on one of the many walks around the estate. Mountain bikes and more strenuous hiking trails are available too, should that float your boat. I was most pleased that the fine dining I had enjoyed in town at the start of my weekend of exploration continued in the country fare available at Walkersons.
An early morning stroll the following day would see my time of exploration and discovery end. Jumping back into the GLB, I headed for home. My travel companion had done well to aid me in my quest for discovery in Dullstroom. At just under 8 l per100km, I rather enjoyed the fuel efficiency of the petrol engine. Plus, with 1 805 litres of packing space, I could take along just about every lens, tripod and camera thingamabob I owned. Camera gadget fomo is not for the faint of heart.
Farewell for a time, Dullstroom; you sure are looking good these days.