The industry weaves luxury with local empowerment, driving sustainable livelihoods and ethical craftsmanship
Tucked in the heart of the Eastern Cape, South Africa’s mohair industry is not just a supplier of luxury — it’s a global powerhouse, anchoring livelihoods and sustaining communities.
Producing more than half of the world’s mohair, South Africa is the undisputed leader in this niche natural fibre trade.
From the arid landscapes of Graaff-Reinet to the bustling processing hubs of Gqeberha, mohair’s journey is one of resilience, craftsmanship and global appeal.
Derived from the fleece of angora goats, mohair is celebrated for its silky sheen, elasticity and durability.
These qualities make it a coveted material for high-end fashion and interiors.
Luxury brands such as MaXhosa by Laduma and Lukhanyo Mdingi use South African mohair, weaving it into suits, scarves and knitwear.
Many international fashion houses have incorporated South African mohair in their designs.
The global appetite for mohair is immense, with 95% of South Africa’s production exported to markets in Europe, Asia and America.
While production volumes have fluctuated, due to environmental challenges, the fibre’s value continues to soar. Last year, mohair fetched an average price of R336 a kilogram.
At the heart of the mohair industry are the communities whose lives revolve around it.
The Eastern Cape, home to more than 1 000 angora goat farms, is a province where mohair is not just a product but a livelihood.
Together, they create jobs for thousands in farming, processing and shearing, offering an economic lifeline in some of South Africa’s most under-resourced areas.
Initiatives such as communal shearing points ensure that smaller producers have access to markets.
These facilities enable emerging farmers to play a meaningful role in the industry while benefiting from its robust value chain.
For many in the Eastern Cape, the mohair industry is more than an employer, it’s a cornerstone of resilience in a region grappling with drought and economic inequality.
South Africa’s mohair industry is not just focused on profits, it has also taken strides to align with global sustainability and ethical standards.
In 2020, the Responsible Mohair Standard was introduced in collaboration with the international non-profit Textile Exchange.
This came after People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals released a video showing cruelty in the mohair industry.
The Responsible Mohair Standard is a game-changer. It helps to guarantee that the fibre is sourced responsibly, with strict guidelines for animal welfare, environmental care and worker well-being.
Importantly, it offers traceability — from farm to finished product — addressing the growing demand for transparency among consumers who care about the origins of what they wear.
South African mohair’s embrace of these standards helps to ensure its relevance in an increasingly eco-conscious global market.
It also protects the industry from the reputational risks that have haunted other sectors where questions of ethics and sustainability have been ignored.
Like many industries rooted in agriculture, the mohair sector is at the mercy of climate change. Droughts, for example, have affected goat health and fleece yields, challenging producers to adapt.
Moreover, the industry must invest in modern processing technologies and robust training programmes to remain competitive.
There’s also a need for more inclusion of marginalised farmers to ensure the wealth generated by the industry reaches all corners of the value chain.
South African mohair is more than just a fibre.
It’s a story of communities bound by tradition and innovation, of farmers who endure tough climates to produce something extraordinary, and of a nation that has mastered the art of sustainable luxury.
From the rocky pastures of the Karoo to the runways of Milan, mohair is a thread that connects South Africa to the world.
Its journey is one of beauty, resilience, and responsibility — a story worth celebrating.
As South Africa continues to lead the global mohair industry, its industry serves as a reminder that true luxury lies not just in the product but in the people and practices behind it.
For the communities of the Eastern Cape, mohair is a symbol of hope, progress and a better tomorrow.