Three stays that prove the Joburg CBD still has style

Johannesburg’s woes are well known — even more so those of the inner city. So why would you want to stay there for business or pleasure purposes? Surely, hotels there are rundown too … or have gone the way of the mothballed Carlton and Johannesburg Sun hotels?

And while I can attest to many dodgy establishments (see sidebar), the three destinations below show it’s both possible and desirable to stay in Jozi’s city centre. 

In fact, your room could give you a much-needed view of optimism — that it’s not all doom and gloom. 

But with an obvious warning — when exploring the areas surrounding these establishments, look like you belong there and not like some hapless tourist waiting to be relieved of your precious belongings.  

The Reef Hotel 

A bit rough around the edges. Heaps of soul and potential. No, I’m not self-promoting again. I’m describing the appeal of The Reef Hotel.

Yes, there’s room for improvement (the hotel is refreshingly open to feedback on what it can do better), which is to be expected as it’s undergoing a process of transformation that includes the training of its many young staff members. They all epitomise the youthful vitality and can-do ambition of the city, including acting general manager Hazel Sibanda.

What was once an office block is now a 120-room hotel in Marshalltown, the part of the CBD where security and the potential for rejuvenation is strongest. 

The pioneering spirit that built Johannesburg is alive and well, both in ethos and the industrial touches throughout the building. These extend to the rooms with their exposed concrete ceilings and the photography on the walls behind the beds. Each floor has its own theme with corresponding information on the city.

My deluxe double room, including a bathroom with a shower and a bath, was super spacious. Just what I needed to counter a recent bout of cabin fever. Standard double, standard twin and deluxe twin rooms are available, too. 

I tested room service (an effective way to gauge things), which was prompt and friendly. 

The recently opened Premier Lounge on the third floor brings a touch of airport VIP-lounge glamour and personalised attention.

And then onto the Elevate Rooftop Bar on the 16th floor, with its incredible urban views. If this doesn’t take your breath away, sorry for you, please check your pulse. 

Open Tuesday to Sunday, it has a vibe, even when not busy. Apparently, it rocks on Friday evenings when staff from the nearby banks knock back a few. 

Need imbibement of a different sort? The Standard Bank Gallery, literally around the corner, should oblige with its exhibition It’s Woven Into Who We Are, featuring tapestries from the bank’s collections and artists such as William Kentridge and Penny Siopis. 

Rand Club

Okay, so not strictly a hotel. But as good, if not better, for all the history, heritage and contemporary relevance it provides. 

In a city obsessed with reinvention, The Rand Club stands as a rare constant. Founded in 1887, just a year after Johannesburg’s own birth, this grand historic institution has witnessed the city’s highs and lows. 

The Edwardian building, completed in 1904, has endured everything from political intrigue — such as the Jameson Raid in 1895, which saw members charged with high treason — to urban decline and even a major fire in 2005.

But survival in Joburg demands more than a celebrated past. Today’s Rand Club members are diverse — black and white, male and female, straight and openly gay — drawn from professions ranging from law and banking to architecture and the arts.

Preserving the five-storey building is a monumental effort, especially given municipal rates that border on extortion. Like many old institutions, the club has adapted, opening its doors to events, offices and accommodation for non-members, without compromising the allure of membership.

I stayed two nights in Room 4, a minimalist yet elegant space. While the rest of the club boasts ornate detailing, this room is designed for restful simplicity — think sash windows, monochromatic bathroom and a minibar. Swankier choices include the deluxe room and luxury suite.

Since my stay included a Sunday, the club’s restaurant and bars (including Africa’s longest) were closed and  I had the place mostly to myself. This gave me time to explore highlights like the original 1904 lift, staircase and the dome above it.

The Rhodes Room (and other colonial relics) could trigger some people. But as a history graduate, I see immense value in confronting uncomfortable legacies rather than erasing them. 

If a picture is worth a thousand words, rather see the club as an opportunity for a history lesson via the numerous portraits and photos, including of Nelson Mandela, Thabo Mbeki and Cyril Ramaphosa, adorning its walls. The good, the bad, the ugly. 

Beyond its walls, the Rand Club is well positioned for exploration. There’s a good chance you’ll recognise the streets around it from many an advert. In fact, my stay coincided with a shoot on the Fox Street side for a betting company ad. 

Blue-plaque buildings, ranging from restored gems to derelict classics, echo Johannesburg’s complex, evolving story. And if you’re still not convinced, the Woolworths Food store down the road should allay any fears that you’re in a complete no-man’s land. 

City Lodge Hotel Newtown

Don’t let the clinical office-building exterior put you off. Once inside, it’s far more inviting than it looks. Part of the nationwide City Lodge Hotel Group, it’s encouraging to see a chain with a presence in the historic Newtown area.

With its easy highway access, this City Lodge attracts a business clientele (a good sign) and assorted leisure-seekers (keep an eye out for regular promotions such as the “40th birthday 40% off weekends” in August, for example). 

The third floor is the centre of activity with its #Café restaurant and fitness room. The pool area, in its urban setting, is particularly attractive for a cocktail or three.

The entry-level standard double room I stayed in, thankfully not a symphony in beige, featuring a queen-size bed and en suite walk-in shower, was comfortable and more spacious than it sounded. 

Other accommodation options in the 148-room hotel include double rooms with sleeper sofas, interleading double rooms, double rooms with facilities for disabled guests and twin rooms, among others.

Reception handled my request to be moved to a room with a balcony in an efficient and friendly manner.

As enjoyable as the hotel is, views from various angles will tell you there’s a world right outside to explore, including the Newtown Cultural Precinct with landmarks such as The Market Theatre, Museum Africa, Sci-Bono Discovery Centre and Turbine Hall within walking distance. Newtown Junction Mall will give you a glimpse of young Johannesburg at work and play.

Most of all, this walkabout that takes in a hodgepodge of architectural styles — from industrial and Victorian to corporate — will provide a snapshot of a dynamic city that keeps going, thanks to the relentless efforts of those who still care about it.