Duvall Pettway and Kojo Baffoe fashion
Local fashion has climbed to an all-time high with designers pulling out all the stops at the 4th annual South African Fashion Week (SAFW). September can be re- dubbed fashion month with the showing of spring/summer collections at various events hosted around Johannesburg. The season kicked off in full swing with Fashion in Da House at the Electric Workshop in Newtown, an event sponsored by Redds,
Yfm and Elle, among others, marrying fashion with entertainment and downright partying.
More than 7E000 black youth came together to view the latest in spring/summer fashion, modelled by national celebrities from Channel O and Yfm. On stage were E’Smile, Caz, Lebo and the rest of the Boom Shaka family. Phat Joe made his debut as the bad boy of fashion by coming out in a red devil ensemble. It entailed a flowing cape, horns, a full-length tail that dragged from his red cat-suit and, of course, a 2m iron pitchfork. He proved to be the host with the most when he did a striptease as a finale.
Sultry 24-year-old sex symbol singer Lebo used the platform to show that she has reinvented herself as the ultimate showstopper.
The introduction of Fashion in Da House didn’t quite make it through the front door. The collection for the evening was denim, denim and more denim, with no designers on show. The models, let’s just say, were not models, with not one professional on stage. They were all VIPs, making that aspect of the evening a disaster. Thank goodness for the endless party music. A few days later attention shifted from the Electric Workshop to SAFW. Held over four days it engulfed Johannesburg north in a plethora of extravagance, style and emotion. The event was held at the new Sandton Convention Centre and ended last Friday.
SAFW was this year expanded to include the first South African Fashion Fair Exhibition, intended to provide designers with the opportunity to profile their creations beyond the glamour of the catwalk. The whole event was approached with mixed feelings from the fashion industry, media and general public. Looking back, a handful of designers stand out as producing the best spring and summer collections.
First up must surely be Jenni Button with her new label Philosophy. Fashion Week’s star designer was in the spotlight after rumours and scandal broke of frocks being cut up at the Button empire. And it was true. Button has left the Jenni Button label due to differences of opinion, management style and company profile. But she pulled out all the stops and left no stone unturned as the opening designer for Fashion Week, launching her new hit label.
The range was uplifting in bright regal colours, such as limes, yellow, red and turquoise. Generally, it’s an exciting season for colour and just brightness. After years of women dressing in black, they’re going all out to be feminine, pretty and naturally sexy. This was all very evident in the work of the new Philosophy label. The collection consisted of hip-huggers that went from fitted to flair with large French cuffs, denim trousers that can go after 5pm with beading at the bottoms, soft, sexy tops with spaghetti strings, suede jackets, chiffon evening skirts and haltered tops with spangles. Straw hats were popular, along with bags and dress-me- up jewellery and knee-length tailored shorts with cuffs. There was a drop dead red party dress, tops with feathers. Bugle- beaded necklines were also popular among the crowd. The king of South African Fashion Week was designer Clive Rundle whose work was styled by Steven Cohen. He showed an immaculate collection titled “9-Carat Gold”. It’s been said that, in this special occasion Clive was the man. His Men’s and Women’s Wear 2000 collection should have local celebrities queueing at his showroom door.
His menswear consisted of full-length tailored jackets showing an ingenious use of zips on the shoulders, side seams and in front; chiffon shirts with cutaway side seams; oversized cowboy hats; and floral suits in blues or reds with multicoloured prints. There were men in feathers making a lasting statement, and a floor-length fur coat with matching fur trousers. His womenswear brought the house down with one show-stopper after another. There was a party dress in gold and black covering the model’s eyes. And there were transparent ankle cowboy boots with snakeskin. The best presentation went to Black Coffee by Jacques van der Watt. The stage was set with hedges, the ramp in a horseshoe shape covered with grass. The models had character that helped set the mood of the quirkiness of yesteryear. The collection carried a classic feeling coupled with an element of surprise for tomorrow. The whole thing was reminiscent of the 1950s, presenting some of the finest craftsmanship around in what appears to be ageless design.
The collection for men was strong, with knit shirts and trousers loose or fitted low waist and lower than usual back pockets and double cuffed shirts with contrasting collars. There were checkered hats and shoes in red and white plaid. For the women, there were tailored skirts pleated in raw silk, there were dramatic must-have corsets with hipsters and a little white dress with a drop back hemline that could take you anywhere. Bravo Jacques, the industry has been waiting for you! Then there was Craig Native – the new rock’n’roll designer on the block. Based in Durban, inspired by the authenticity of Africa, he shows joy is experimentation. One understands why Lenny Kravitz fell in love with his designs. His collection delivered velvet slacks with cut-away body tops and ultra flair trousers combining velvet and denim, or denim with PVC. There were denim trousers designed to be worn inside-out. There were “second- skin” shirts accessorised with the models carrying Zulu spears and shields. There were cow-hides around the neck, lace tops and cropped jackets in denim. Without a doubt, designer Craig Native is well on his way to being one of the first international sensations out of South Africa. You go boy!