Fishing isn’t my forte. I reminded myself of this as I tugged helplessly on the rod, trying to dislodge my hook that, during a somewhat wayward attempt at casting, had embedded itself into a low-slung jackalberry tree.
If the bass in the dam at the Ilanga Nature Reserve had voices, they were surely laughing their fins off at me and sympathising with the two nine-year-old boys who, between whines that they had wanted to cast, giggled at my predicament.
One more firm tug failed to move the hook, but managed to break the line, sending the floats tumbling beyond reach in the reeds, but at least freeing the rod and enabling me to trudge, somewhat deflated and accompanied by boyish derision, back to Casa do Sol, a “hotel of distinction” (as the brochure stated) since 1968.
Distinct it certainly is, lovingly forged in a classic, Portuguese style of architecture that is the product of owner Wellesley Bailey’s passion for that country.
Cobbled streets wind intricately between casas and villas, some with small, walled gardens and each unique.
It’s a curious mix of cultures but it works, and even if it doesn’t gel at first it definitely grows on you, leaving you as hooked as the jackalberry at the neighbouring nature reserve, which is part of the sprawling 500ha property just outside Hazyview in the Mpuma-langa Lowveld.
But Casa do Sol isn’t just a pretty face. The levels of service and the friendliness and efficiency of the staff are a tribute to the tight ship run by general manager Lawrence Thevenau and put some far grander and hugely more expensive establishments I could name to shame.
It all goes to show that you don’t have to pay a fortune to get good service in South Africa.
Perhaps the greatest thing in the hotel’s favour is its position. Five short kilometres from Hazyview on the R536 to Sabie means that a short drive puts you in the heart of the Panorama Route, one of the country’s top tourist drawcards that covers a huge swathe of land from the Blyde River Canyon in the north to the likes of Dullstroom and Wakkerstroom, and reaching as far as Barberton in the south.
And another advantage is that the Kruger National Park is on Casa do Sol’s doorstep, a short 15-minutes away courtesy of the (relatively) new Phabeni gate on the old Kruger Gate road.
Location aside, the hotel has a lot to offer. For a start, there’s a range of accommodation, from the simple but stylish casas to villas and suites and the top-of-the-range executive suite, which comes complete with its own pool and Jacuzzi in a large, private walled garden.
The rooms are all decorated in keeping with the style of the hotel, with cool ceramic tiles underfoot, open beams and bamboo-cladded ceilings under the charming terracotta roof tiles. Air conditioning keeps the heat at bay and, believe me, it gets extremely hot and sticky in the summer with average daytime highs of 35ÞC.
There are beautifully appointed en suite facilities in all rooms and tea- and coffee-making facilities. There are also direct-dial telephones and hairdryers.
The standard casas have either twin or double beds and bathrooms, while the villas have twin or double beds, bathroom, garden area and bar fridge.
The suites offer a range of facilities, some having twin beds and sleeper couches, all having either a walled garden or balcony and some having a king-sized bed. There are also two interleading family suites with twin beds and sleeper couches and an interconnecting door offering the perfect option for two families traveling together or a large family with older children.
The design of the suites is split-level and open-plan, with the living area separated from the sleeping area by a clever use of built-in planters, small stairwells and lots of cupboard space.
All rooms have televisions and these are in the process of being upgraded, with extra television channels coming on line in the near future.
Casa do Sol also has a great conference centre with state-of-the-art equipment and facilities for 100 people in the main conference room, 18 in its boardroom and an additional 10 people in an “office” room. There are numerous breakaway rooms and a fully equipped business centre making the hotel one of the most sophisticated conference venues east of Gauteng.
The beautiful gardens that surround the hotel include two swimming pools and the large thatched Tropique pool bar and lounge area, an all-weather floodlit tennis court, stables, two restaurants and the aforementioned Ilanga Nature Reserve.
The reserve has been hailed as the last stretch of pristine, indigenous bush in the Sabie River Valley. It covers an area of densely forested mountainside, open grassland and riverine woodland with gently trickling streams and granite outcrops providing some truly wonderful views.
Guests at Casa do Sol can take advantage of walking trails in the reserve, either on their own steam or under the guidance of reserve manager Peter Binney.
There are many routes, starting from a leisurely one-hour walk up to more vigourous hikes over several kilometres of mountainside. Another option is to explore the reserve with Binney on horseback, letting four legs take the strain instead of two.
While it may not be a Big Five reserve, there’s still plenty to see, from orb spiders and several species of snakes to zebra, giraffe, kudu, bush pig and impala. And the birdlife is fabulous too, with a variety of water species such as jacanas, white-faced duck and giant kingfishers around the dam complemented by forest and bush dwellers such as the woodland kingfisher and yellowfronted tinker barbet and the breathtaking longcrested eagle.
Of course, there’s fishing available too. But watch out for the trees.
Binney has been in charge of the reserve for 10 months and is compiling a checklist of species on the property. Plans are afoot to acquire some more game and Binney can offer team-building and bush survival courses.
During my stay, I visited Ilanga’s rather large neighbour — the Kruger National Park — getting up before dawn and taking advantage of the hotel’s packed breakfast service by loading a fully stocked cooler box into my bakkie and heading for the Phabeni gate a mere 15km away.
After a four-hour game drive I breakfasted like a king at Pretoriuskop’s day-visitor picnic site. Many hotels offer a packed breakfast to guests wanting to go out exploring early, but few could surpass that provided by Casa do Sol, which was brimming with hard-boiled eggs, cold meats, cheeses of all description, scones, fruit juices, crackers and even bowls of yoghurt and fruit salad. This was topped off with a table cloth, napkins, plates, side plates, cutlery and condiments and added up to perhaps the best packed breakfast I have ever had, my own included!
Indeed, dining at Casa do Sol is a pleasure, be it at the Cozinha Velha restaurant where breakfasts and dinners are served, or at the acclaimed à la carte restaurant O Estabulo. Chiquitas bar also serves pub meals and lunches either inside in the cozy bar or outside on the terrace.
The food is wonderful, with a range of mouthwatering dishes on the menu each evening and a wide variety at breakfast and lunch. And this is where Casa do Sol comes into its own because its accommodation rates include breakfast and dinner. This means that you can dine to your heart’s content without worrying about the bill. It also makes the hotel great for families and groups. Where children are concerned the kitchen is more than willing to tailor meals to suit their tastes.
Indeed, Casa do Sol is a great family hotel and ideal for short breaks or weekend getaways. It’s also a marvellous base from which to explore the wonders of the Lowveld, with Graskop a half-hour drive away via Kowyn’s Pass, Pilgrim’s Rest 45-minutes away and Sabie 42km away.
And if, like me, you take the kids with you, watch where you cast when showing off your fishing skills.
Sharon van Wyk was hosted by Casa do Sol. She travelled courtesy of her Isuzu KB320 bakkie
The lowdown
Casa do Sol is situated on the R536 from Hazyview to Sabie, about 5km out of Hazyview. It’s an easy drive from Johannesburg with a choice of routes, either straight down the N4 to Nelspruit and then left on to the R40 through White River to Hazyview (about four hours) or cross-country through Belfast, Dullstroom, Lydenburg and Sabie. This route takes longer but includes the amazing Longtom pass.
Accommodation rates at Casa do Sol offer excellent value for money, especially considering that they include breakfast and dinner each day. Rates vary according to seasonality with high-season rates running until April 30 and again from October 1 to October 31. Low-season rates apply from May 1 to September 30. Rates for November onwards have not yet been released. A casa for two people sharing costs R1 080 a night in high season and R870 a night in low season. A villa will set you back R1 300 a night in high season and R1 040 a night in low season. A downstairs twin suite is R1 770 in high season and R1 420 in the low season, with the same rates for an upstairs double suite. The executive suite, with his-and-her bathrooms, a swimming pool and Jacuzzi in a private walled garden comes in at R3 060 a night in high season and R2 450 a night in low saeson. Children sharing a room with two adults pay R160 a child per night and a third adult, sharing, pays R300 a night. Children are not allowed in the executive suite. For more information or to make a reservation contact Casa do Sol on (013) 737 8111 or visit www.casadosol.co.za
Win a Casa do Sol getaway
Two lucky readers could soon be spending a wonderful self-drive break in the Lowveld courtesy of Escape and Casa do Sol.
The hotel is offering two nights’ complementary accommodation for two, subject to availability, including breakfast and dinner daily, as a competition prize in our latest Great Escape. To enter the competition and stand a chance of winning this great prize, all you have to do is answer the following question: What is the name of the nature reserve at Casa do Sol? E-mail your answer, together with your contact details, including your telephone numbers, to the Casa do Sol competition at [email protected] or post your entry to Escape Casa do Sol Competition, PO Box 91667, Auckland Park 2006. The closing date for entries is Friday February 14.
The prize is valid for two people sharing a double room at Casa do Sol for two nights and does not include transport to and from the hotel.