Hands up who knows where Slovenia is? If you don’t, it’s no surprise because the country is roughly the size of Wales and it’s only been an independent state for just more than 10 years, being the first country to emerge from the former Yugoslavia.
Slovenia is located in the heart of Europe and shares borders with Italy, Austria and Croatia, and although it’s small, it has its head in the Alps and its toes dangling in the Adriatic.
There are fairytale castles, shimmering lakes, emerald forests, rolling hills, vineyards, mountain-top villages, Venetian architecture and one of the coolest capital cities in Europe.
With United Kingdom-based low-cost airline easyJet’s new regular service between London-Stansted and the capital, Ljubljana the country is braced for a big influx of visitors.
As capital cities go, Ljubljana is pretty small, with the emphasis firmly on the word “pretty”. Barcelona had Gaudi to give the city its distinctive look; Ljubljana had Josef Plecnik, a 1920s architect and design genius little known outside his native land. Plecnik studied abroad before returning to Ljubljana and transforming the city into a treasure trove of baroque-style buildings, bridges and boulevards.
There’s a lot to see. Preseren Square — more of a junction — takes its name from Slovenia’s greatest poet and represents the heart of Llubljana. Surrounded by some of the city’s finest buildings and sculptures, and standing beside the Triple Bridge, it is an ideal first port of call. Enjoy a coffee at a pavement cafe while you get your bearings.
Ljubljana castle dates back to the 13th century and sits on top of a hill above the town, regally surveying the “roofscape” of terracotta tiled houses and buildings below.
Today the courtyard hosts concerts and art shows in the summer, and is also a popular venue for wedding receptions.
The castle is closed on Saturdays and Mondays. Vodnik Square market stands over the river from Preseren Square and is less than a three-minute walk away.
Flower stalls form a riot of colour outside the colonnaded covered market, which is one of the most beautiful in Europe. Shopping here is always an adventure, and you can find seasonal produce and local handicrafts. The market is closed on Sundays, but the antique stalls that line the bank of the river every Sunday morning more than make up for it.
While you’re there, it’s worth poking your nose round the door of the cathedral, which stands next to the market. The interior is an eye-popping extravaganza of gilt and marble, executed in the most ornate Baroque tradition.
Cross back over the river via the Dragon Bridge, to explore Town Square and Old Square, both of which are more like narrow streets. They are lined with boutiques, antique shops, art galleries, restaurants and bars. It is where everyone congregates on summer evenings to promenade. You will rub shoulders with the young, stylish set before they depart to begin the more serious business of hitting the late bars and nightclubs.
Slovenia wasn’t so small that it escaped Napoleon’s attention, and his legacy can be seen in French Revolution Square. Sipping a coffee, you could easily imagine you were in a quiet corner of Paris.
Walking tours of Ljubljana last from two to four hours (from June to September, they start every day at 5pm; out of season, on Sundays at 11am).
But a good map or guide book is really all you need. There is also a two-hour bus tour. One that really is well worth considering though is Plecnik’s Ljubljana, a five-hour tour conducted in English on foot and by bus, which introduces you to his greatest works ([email protected]).
Letting your hair down is easy, especially when you consider that Slovenia’s national anthem is, in reality, a drinking song, which tells you all you need to know about how Slovenes like to enjoy themselves. Not surprisingly, pubs and bars proliferate throughout the city and range from the traditional wooden floors and tables to the trendy polished steel variety. On summer nights, everyone spills out into the streets and squares. One of the more lively areas is the stretch along the river opposite Preseren Square.
Standing at the heart of Europe, you can find practically every type of cuisine in Ljubljana. But if you don’t mind putting on a kilo or two, try some of the local specialities: prsut — a delicious air-dried ham; and struklji — a doughy pancake stuffed with meat, vegetables or sweet fillings. From the forested parts of the country, venison is a speciality, and Ljubljana restaurants and cafes teem with fresh fish dishes.
On matters more liquid, when Slovenia was part of Yugoslavia, its wine industry was nationalised, resulting in those bottles of ghastly Laski Riesling that bring back memories of Abigail’s Party. Thankfully, today Slovenia is rightly proud of its emerging reputation in international viniculture. One tip: wine bottles with gold and silver labels are premium or quality wines while bronze labels denote a table wine. The must-try red is the Karst Teran; the white is Traminerc.
Slovenes have a keen ear for music, and there are a number of cool jazz and rock clubs. Jazz lovers should check out the Gajo Jazz Club, which attracts international as well as local stars. The Rock Café is also worth hitting. Discos and clubs include Klub K4, Klub Central, Klub Man-hattan and Klub Metropole. For a change of pace, put on your Latino dancing shoes for a spot of salsa at Casa del Papa. This Cuban-style, upmarket joint, modelled on a Hemingway theme, is popular with the well-heeled and has a stylish American bar upstairs and a very good restaurant.
Because Slovenia is so small, you can easily get out and about on day trips. Head north to Lake Bled where its castle and island church remind one of a scene torn from the pages of Hans Christian Andersen. Go south for an afternoon at the Lipica stables, home of the snow-white horses made famous by the Spanish Riding School of Vienna. Or enjoy a session of fangotherapy (being smeared in mud) at one of the health spas in Portoroz.
In the evening, you can gain a few kilos at one of the many casinos, or explore the cobbled alleyways of the fishing village of Piran, topped by the bell tower of St George’s. Car hire is available at the airport; alternatively, the bus depot is by the Railway Station in Ljubljana. — Â