/ 5 June 2006

The edge of reason

There have been few times in my life when sheer excitement has rendered me speechless. And even fewer when that excitement has caused my mouth to hang open in a zombie-like gawp.

Indeed, there has only been one instance, thus far, when both things happened simultaneously in one stomach-churning moment and it involved me being immersed up to my neck in the Zambezi on the very edge of the Victoria Falls.

The 3m-by-3m pool known as Angels Armchair on the lip of the main cataract is reached by a short swim across the mighty river from Livingstone Island — a haven of sanity in the boiling madness of the river.

Not five metres away, the full force of the river was raging over the edge of the falls, plummeting hundreds of metres to spend itself at the foot of the gorge. And yet, the water around me was still, protected from the swift, life-threatening currents by an encircling wall of rock.

You can tick it off as one of the things to do before you die — an experience not to be missed. Which just about sums up Victoria Falls in general. And, thanks to the forward-thinking of operators on both sides of the falls in the towns of Livingstone (Zambia) and Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe), it is now a marvelous value-for-money package holiday destination for budget- conscious South Africans.

Because the falls themselves are dry for most of the year on the Zambian side, I recommend you stay a couple of nights on either side. The countries are literally a bridge apart, and getting across the border is no hassle, as borders go.

Tour operators such as Safari Par Excellence (Safpar) run operations on both sides of the falls, so transfers from one side to the other are usually included in package prices, as are flights, accommodation and, in some cases, certain activities.

In Livingstone the Waterfront is a bustling tourism hub on the edge of the Zambezi, which offers accommodation, a restaurant and lively pub, swimming pools and a range of excursions.

All budgets are catered for, from executive-class double chalets, en-suite twin chalets to the cheap and cheerful Adventure Village with its furnished twin tents. There is also a campsite for those wishing to pitch their own tents, complete with power points, braai areas and shower and toilet facilities.

The activities are not just for adrenalin junkies, although it has to be said that white-water rafting is really what the ultimate rush is all about. There are calmer, more relaxing ways to experience the river — on canoe or river safaris or sundowner cruises. The Waterfront booking office also handles helicopter and microlight flips, elephant-back safaris and encounters, cultural tours and, of course, trips to Livingstone Island and Angels Armchair (in the dry season only).

Of course, Sun International has its two big flagship hotels at the Falls Resort, a stones throw from the falls themselves on the edge of the river. The Zambezi Sun and Royal Livingstone are both huge drawcards for South African travellers, offering affordable short-stay package deals.

Away from the hustle and bustle of town, Thorntree River Lodge is set inside the Mosi oa Tunya National Park, a few kilometres upstream from the falls. A collection of attractive, secluded thatched chalets is strung out along the river bank, each with its own private patio overlooking the water. Meals are taken under the stars, at the main lodge and guests can enjoy elephant encounters and safaris at the adjacent elephant camp.

Thorntree also runs its own river craft, with canoes and river safaris among the activities on offer.

On the other side of the river, Zimbabwe enjoys a year-round rush of water over those inimitable falls. The spectacle can be enjoyed solo or as part of a guided tour, and Southern African Development Community residents pay $12,50 (about R84) for entry, on production of a passport or ID book (dollars and rands are accepted).

Victoria Falls is on the up. After years of hardship caused by Zimbabwes political unrest, tourism is once again on the increase in this picturesque and historic town. Eateries abound, as do craft and curio shops, and haggling is order of the day.

Accommodation on the Zim side is plentiful and varied. The Kingdom and the Victoria Falls hotel — the oldest hotel in Africa — rest cheek-by-jowl with smaller lodges such as Ilala and the Sprayview.

Further out of town you can find the excellent Elephant Hills hotel and Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. And if youre looking for something equivalent to Thorntree, then Masuwe Safari Lodge fits the bill. Its situated in a 1 000ha private game reserve a mere 15-minute drive from town. Accommodation is in 10 upmarket en-suite safari tents, with large, raised wooden decks overlooking the bushveld and it is here that you can participate in a lion encounter, walking and interacting with these enigmatic big cats.

Yes. Walking with lions is a reality at Victoria Falls. And if that doesnt have you speechless and agog, then theres always that pool on the edge of reason.

The lowdown
For information on the latest package deals to Livingstone and Victoria Falls contact Safpar on Tel: (011) 794 8261; Sun International Dreams on Tel: (011) 217 5500.

For information on the Kingdom, Victorial Falls Hotel and Elephant Hills visit www.africansunhotels.co.za or Tel: (011) 442 0488. Alternatively, pop into your local travel agent for a range of excellent specials.

Safpar offers an extreme-discount programme at the Waterfront in Livingstone, with several options, ranging from $185 (about R1 240) for two activities — from a list featuring white-water rafting and elephant encounters plus a river sunset cruise; to $245 (R1 641) for two from the same list, plus a 15-minute helicopter flip over the falls. In Victoria Falls, Wild Horizons operate some excellent activities. Tel: (011) 880 5372. Most hotels, lodges and camps on both sides of the falls can arrange activities to suit your needs.