Some people lay on a spread that could feed an army even if they’re having a small braai. They might as well go the whole hog, though, pack up the kitchen sink and go camping for a few days.
Ask anyone in the Cape about their favourite camping spots and the same places come up time and again. This is because they offer a retreat from daily stresses in remote but accessible places.
The Cape West Coast may be arid, but there are some gorgeous campsites beside the ocean, lake or river, where you can get more than your feet wet. Here’s a selection of the best.
Tietiesbaai
While there are plenty of really cute cottages to rent in Paternoster – two hours north of Cape Town – there’s great value camping next door at Tietiesbaai in the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve.
Prepare to be wowed by an almost tropical seascape; sandy beaches beside clear blue coves protected by granite boulders. But you’ll soon realise this is not the Seychelles when you put a toe in the water – the Atlantic bites back. It is, however, one of the most stunning settings along this coast and one of the cheapest.
Tietiesbaai gets booked up in school holidays. But at other times you can just turn up. For this reason, and to get a permit to fish or collect mussels or crayfish, it’s best to be organised. Phone 022 752 2718 or fax your booking to 022 715 1518.
You can book a fixed tent at the Beach Camp, or hire a cottage in Paternoster: www.stayinpaternoster.co.za
Beaverlac
Beaverlac is not far off the N7, which tracks south-north all the way up the West Coast to Namibia. This camping site’s logo is of soaring eagles, but that’s not all that flies in these skies. Paragliders launch themselves off the Porterville mountains and travel up to 139km on thermals that can lift them to 9 000m above sea level. But at Beaverlac, you will feel firmly grounded among rocks that have been sculpted by water into caves, crevices and gorges. It’s in one of these deep mountain pools that you will spend much of your time when camping at Beaverlac.
Like-minded souls congregate at this rustic campsite, where there is no electricity. Well-behaved dogs are welcome. You don’t need a 4×4, but it’s probably best that you leave your ÂPorsche at home. You can’t book campsites and it does not have email, so it’s simply a matter of turning up. You could call 022 931 2945, but there’s no guarantee anyone will pick up. All the info you need is on: www.capefrisco.com/beaverlac/contact.aspx
Sanddrif, Cederberg
If you are a keen hiker or rock climber you might have heard of the Maltese Cross, the Arch or Wolfberg Cracks in the Cederberg. These rock formations lure people back to Sanddrif. At 1 000m above sea level, this simple but beautiful camp is located on South Africa’s highest winery. It’s not what you might expect in a remote area where snow falls in winter and you can fry an egg on the rocks in summer. But Cederberg Wines are better in quality and higher in price than the average quaffable camping dop. Sanddrif has good, clean facilities and electricity points. You can swim in the river next to the bridge and there’s a deep, inviting pool 15 minutes walk through the Valley of the Red Gods. An added attraction is a little observatory for star-gazing. Contact Sanddrif on 027 482 2825, email sanddrif@cederbergwine.com or visit www.cederbergwine.com.
Richtersveld National Park
The Richtersveld is the most remote of our national parks. Getting to it means a long drive to the north-west corner of the country, but it’s worth it. Around each corner is a changing landscape, with the lush banks of the Orange River giving respite from the dry interior. These unusual conditions not only combine to produce a variety of scenery, but also hide the most precious stones known to man – diamonds. There is even mining inside the park, so don’t ignore the “No Entry” signs, as they are sensitive about protecting their bling.
A 4×4 or high-wheel base SUV is essential, as is a good supply of water, petrol and food. This is intrepid camping with extraordinary rewards. If you happen to be there in spring, the ground bursts with some of the 300 different plant species found in just one dry and dusty square kilometre. Ancient petroglyph engravings are found on black dolomite rocks, put there by Bushmen about 2 000 years ago. Some of the campsites have ablutions and even a few chalets, but the Richtersveld is about being as far away from your neighbour as possible. Check out the options on:
www.sanparks.org/parks/richtersveld/tourism/accommodation.php or www.richtersveld.net/index.php/site/