You’ve probably heard enough about Cape Town to impress or disgust — depending on your bent.
Gorgeous beaches and mountains plus a buzzing nightlife have earned the Mother City its status as a world class holiday destination. As part of our tourist guide to the host cities the Mail & Guardian has already rounded up the best of what’s on offer in Cape Town.
But iconic spots like Table Mountain, Camps Bay and Long Street have been long-celebrated. Where do the notoriously cliquey locals hang out? We round up a few of Cape Town’s hidden gems. If tourist Cape Town doesn’t do it for you, this just might.
Julep Bar
We’re almost loathe to tell you about this favoured cocktail lounge, given how incredibly well-concealed it is. Party-goers tripping past Long Street Café on their way to Fiction or Marvel easily miss the dark and slightly dodgy alley running to the right of Long Street Café, perpendicular to Long Street. Turn into it and a few metres down on your left a tiny plaque besides the door grudgingly admits you’ve arrived at Julep Bar. You’re then swept into a one-man blues band leading the dance troupe on the tiny floor, or a throng of beautiful young things at the bar bopping to eclectic beats — depending on the night. The waiters are cute and the place is as fun as it is minuscule. Between 5pm and 8pm select cocktails are only R20 and they offer very decently-priced yummy tapas too. Call them on +27 21 423 4276.
Train rides to Kalk Bay
Don’t be scared off by the snobby Capetonians who have never been on a train. This southern line from Cape Town to Wynburg is one of the safest and while you’ll have to pick your way through the usual public transport grime to get there, the view of the ocean from your train seat is worth the wait, as is the arrival in the heart of the Kalk Bay. You can shake your head sympathetically at the frustrated motorists trying to find parking and make your way to Olympia Café for freshly baked breakfast. Go on a Sunday and make sure to enquire when the last train leaves back to Cape Town, or whichever suburb you’re returning to along the line. A seaside village, Kalk Bay is a favourite with locals and tourists for its trendy shops, fresh fish and colourful boats. For train timetables, routes and fare information you can visit the Metrorail Western Cape website. Make sure to stick to the Southern areas in your route and travel during the day for maximum safety. You need to head towards Simon’s Town to get there, but railway personnel will help you out. And with next-to-nothing ticket prices, you’ll save yourself loads in petrol or taxi fares.
Bargain shopping in the city centre
While the more well-to-do locals may never venture near the busy city centre in favour of air-conditioned malls, the stalls and shops around the Cape Town central train station and nearby shopping centre, Golden Acres, is worth it as much for the bargains as for the buzz. It’s your normal fare of cheap clothes and African crafts but you’re bound to find a gem here and then, often in the smaller shops run by Somalians and Ethiopians. Plus, it’s really central to the other more well-known attractions in the city centre so you can stop off here to do some shopping during your sightseeing. Golden Acres was the premier shopping centre back in the day when black people were kept out of those sorts of places. In a neat reversal of fortunes, you’ll rarely see white South Africans there now and it has become something of a working-class mall. Besides its busy courtyards and airy interiors filled with stalls, it extends through labyrinthine corridors beneath the streets too. These shopping concourses link up to other areas in the city, including the train station. Nearby is the lovely pedestrian mall, St George’s, with its open-air restaurants, as well as Greenmarket Square, which houses African crafts stalls. Interestingly enough, if you had stood where Golden Acres was 80 years ago you would have had the crashing Atlantic Ocean at your feet. The location of the building marks the original shoreline, before land was reclaimed from the sea in the 1930s. Remains of a water tank constructed in 1663 were discovered during its building and is now on display behind glass in this mall. Find it on 9 Adderley Street in Cape Town’s CBD and don’t hang out there after dark.
Off the beaten club track
Reams have been written about Cape Town’s famous Malay and coloured population (no, it’s not a racial slur in these parts) and their history and culture. But don’t just visit the District Six museum to learn more. If you want to party with those locals you’ll have to follow the music. Think jazz for the older folks and R&B and hip hop for the young ‘uns (although obviously not across the board). Most tourists will head straight to Long Street for a night out but you’re likely to meet more locals in Wetton and Ottery. Start off at Pizza Place at 141 Wetton Road where everyone seems to know each other. The place is a constant hive of activity with pre-party, post-party and mid-party meals and drinks, not to mention passionate English Premier League supporters. The jazzers will make their way over to Swingers on 1 Wetwyn Road, near Wetton station, for live jazz, jam sessions and dancing. If clubbing is more your style check out Galaxy on College Road, Rylands. Open since 1978, it’s beyond an institution at this point, with multiple bars and a custom built sound system.
Johnny’s Rotis
If you’re from Durban you’ll know why this is a big deal. Sunrise Chip ‘n Ranch — aka Johnny’s — has been bastardising rotis for years and earning a cult following for their stodgy and deeply satisfying offerings. Think triple chip ‘n cheese, with mutton gravy. Following their success in Durban, the family has opened a version of their trademarked caged kitchen in Mowbray, where you can exchange a handful of coins for a massive roti squeezed through the bars. Open till late, try it when very hungry or very hung-over and don’t expect finesse. You’ll find this now-legendary Indian take-away on 94 Main Road, Mowbray.
So there you have it. Cape Town is not all trendoids up to your ears and postcard perfect views. Look out for our video and written guides of more host cities coming out in May.