Not only has Serena Williams encouraged people to dream crazier — as the most successful tennis player in history — but to push boundaries of creative dressing on the courts. Photo: Supplied
Why do tennis players’ on-court sartorial choices make the same headlines as the grand slam’s outcomes? While World Tennis Day in March celebrates the sport’s champions, they also serve some serious outfits on the court.
For decades there has been order in the court with preppy monochromatic white outfits like polo-necks and tennis skirts, with skirt lengths depending on what is (or was) socially acceptable. Now players are acing fresh looks with vibrant patterns, political messages, and fierce silhouettes backed by sportswear giants.
The anatomy of the tennis “fit is both comfortable and practical”, while adhering to the strict codes of the courts. While some play it safe, other tennis stars let their personalities shine through their ensembles. Of course those who sport custom pieces are backed by sportswear Nike, Adidas, or New Balance.
Serena Williams goes off-white
Not only has Serena Williams encouraged people to dream crazier — as the most successful tennis player in history — but to push boundaries of creative dressing on the courts. She has worn off-white on the court twice. In 2018, days after her compression catsuit-style ensemble was banned by the French Tennis Federation, Williams wore a tutu dress designed by the late Virgil Abloh for Nike at the US Open. The next year at the 2019 French Open, Williams wore a custom two-piece black and white set with the French words for “Mother, Champion, Queen, Goddess”, printed on a cape.
At the 2004 US Open, Williams also dared to go denim in a short pleated jean skirt, designed by Nike. She was not the first to sport denim on the court, as Andre Agassi first played tennis in denim shorts in the 1980s. Of course, in 2022 Williams announced her retirement in the most fashionable way — in her cover story for Vogue Magazine’s September issue, which she wrote herself.
Andre Agassi on acid
Andre Agassi’s signature on-the-court look is straight out of the 1980s. A long-haired mullet, luminous sneakers and Nike acid-wash denim shorts. Agassi’s style was a form of sartorial rebellion against the strict dress codes at the highest level of the tennis world.
It’s hard to imagine how comfortable it must have been for Agassi to win eight major tennis titles in a pair of shorts made from denim, a material with notoriously limited movement compared to sportier counterparts because this was before denim had any element of stretch to them. Agassi’s style translates as a 1980s rockstar more than a professional tennis player, pushing the dress code for the sport a little further out of its comfort zone.
Arthur Ashe’s effortless cool
Arthur Ashe’s 1970s afro-prep style would still fly in 2023. Ashe was the first black man to win the US Open, Australian Open and Wimbledon, and he did it in style. Ashe even won the 1973 South African Open before funding grassroots tennis centres in Soweto.
Compared to his competitors, Ashe kept it clean in crisp whites with the occasional touch of colour, a classic gold watch, tube socks and tortoiseshell shades. These small additions made his style a cut above the rest. In 2022, the Arthur Ashe fashion brand was launched to celebrate his preppy style legacy with sporty polo-neck shirts, pinstripe trousers and crewneck tops, all of which are inspired by outfits worn on and off the tennis court by Ashe.
Naomi Osaka’s colour blocking
At the 2017 US Open, the then 19-year-old Naomi Osaka brought colour-blocking sensibilities to the court in an Adidas 1970s era Bauhaus colour blocking dress with red, blue and yellow stripes and blocks punctuating a white dress.
Osaka took this ensemble, co-designed by musician Pharrell Williams, (now creative director at Louis Vuitton Menswear, the extra mile by pairing it with Adidas Adizero Ubersonic 3 Pharrell sneakers. The collection debuted at the Arthur Ashe Stadium in Flushing, New York as a nod to tennis legend, Arthur Ashe.
Wonder Woman Venus Williams
At the 2021 Miami Open, Venus Williams sported a stellar Wonder-Woman-Inspired outfit as a salute to all women during Women’s History Month. The one piece dress was navy blue with gold with stars complete with a Wonder Woman belt motif and a gold lamé finish. It was designed by her label EleVen and could be bought by women everywhere.
The sartorial choice is more than a corny cosplay as a super heroine, but speaks to the heavy lifting of the Williams sisters and female athletes within the male-dominated world of sport. In an industry where the female form is constantly scrutinised, Williams adorns, celebrates, and wins.